Gully 1

1 Stars

Adjacent Routes
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90m. The gully left of Viking Buttress is fairly interesting.


Can be suprisingly hard in lean conditions.
Paul Jackson - 29/Jan/03

I agree. This route can vary from a walk to something I've backed off as a soloist up to III
michaelw - 29/Jan/03

From the bottom of the gully climb easily up to a peg in-situe (on the right) just before a short step. Belay here before moving up the V-groove, or as we did carry on and belay at the bottom of the obvious V-groove on an ice screw & warthog.

The crux ice pitch (very narrow) took several more ice screws (is this really a II ?) before a step right and the hard stuff is done. The gully leads directly to the summit shelter.
Martin W - 02/Feb/03

The V groove first pitch seemed a definite grade III to me on thick solid ice (climbed 20/02/05). The way the groove narrows to a thin chimney whilst convex ice pushes you off balance makes the crux moves grade III. However the next pitch is straightforward grade II, once you're out of the narrow chimney.
Martin Roberts - 06/Mar/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 35
    hard S-II/III 0 of 18
    S-II/III 0 of 18
    easy S-II/III 0 of 18
    hard S-II 5 of 18
    S-II 4 of 18
    easy S-II 1 of 18
    hard S-I/II 0 of 18
    S-I/II 0 of 18
    easy S-I/II 8 of 18
    3 Stars 0 of 17
    2 Stars 7 of 17
    1 Star 9 of 17
    0 Stars 1 of 17
    Bag of ..... 0 of 17

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