Viking Buttress Top 50

2 Stars
 S-IV 5

Adjacent Routes
<< Left Buttress Variation finish < Rape and Pillage  |  Thor's Corner > Prince of Darkness >>

80m. An excellent mixed route often in condition. 1) 3, 40m. Start at the lowest rocks and climb the left edge of the buttress passing a short steep wall to a belay on a slab below a step wall. 2) 5, 40m. Climb a short crack above the belay and step right to a small bay. Up a bulge and traverse left to below a step wall. A technical move gains a tiny ledge on the edge and a tricky move right enables the final shallow groove to be reached.
FA. W. Freeland, A. James


Nice climbing. Tricky move right, and final groove seems hard. If it defeats you (like it did us!), escape left possible, down to top of V.Groove, then a decent (III?) turfy pitch back up R. to the top of the buttress.
Jules Coleman - 28/Jan/03

we mantled onto the tiny ledge, and climbed direct up the wall instead of moving right. about technical 5?? DAn? seems like a more logical finish, and good climbing.
ged - 21/Jan/04

Soloed in Feb 1991 in perfect conditions, very thich rime ice and neve. My companion soloed a route 50 mts to right, but unfortunately was killed on the Ben the following week. Such is life...
Sean Kelly - 09/Feb/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 44
    hard S-V 0 of 16
    S-V 0 of 16
    easy S-V 0 of 16
    hard S-IV 2 of 16
    S-IV 12 of 16
    easy S-IV 2 of 16
    hard S-III 0 of 16
    S-III 0 of 16
    easy S-III 0 of 16
    hard ?? 2 of 16
    ?? 9 of 16
    easy ?? 0 of 16
    hard ?? 5 of 16
    ?? 0 of 16
    easy ?? 0 of 16
    3 Stars 1 of 12
    2 Stars 11 of 12
    1 Star 0 of 12
    0 Stars 0 of 12
    Bag of ..... 0 of 12

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