Jitter Face

2 Stars
 HS 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Jitterbug Buttress < The Kirkus Original  |  Townsend's Variation > Censor >>

Start below the centre of the face and climb until sloping holds lead diagonally right towards the arete. After a couple of moves up, traverse back left to join The Kirkus Original. Easy but unprotected and a long way above a poor landing; care required.


This is a fine climb. but I have to seriously dispute the grading, granted it is unprotected but no harder than severe, V Diff was fine in my opinion, and I only lead VS on a good day so this isn't the opinion of some E5 leader, if you lead severe and like slabby things this is a good route
Matt - 13/May/02

Top route but overgraded. Used to be V.Diff, still V.Diff. No need to upgrade all easy routes just cos they might be a bit bold
Galpinos - 02/Sep/02

VD's dont have completly unprotected 4a moves at 8m. Look at the picture, there is no point taking a rack as there is no pro until on the ledge just up and left from the climber, the finish is easy.
Even at 3c it would be top end Severe, bottom end HS (to compare with better protected VS 4a routes like Fairy Steps). Learn the UK system and use it properly.
Steve C - 17/Dec/02

Significantly easier than Fairy Steps
Chris Moor - 17/Dec/02

The adjectival grade is about seriousness as well as difficulty. Fairy Steps (4b in my book) is harder but has more gear. So this has to be HS 4a or S 3c. Remember that when this was graded VDiff, no routes had any protection to speak of, so there was no need to differentiate between well-protected and unprotected.
Simon Caldwell - 18/Dec/02

Send a beginner leader up this when it was graded V-Diff and you will have scared them off for life. It's not just the fact that it's gearless, it's the fact that the landing is so poor, especially if you fall off to the right. Okay so it's easy climbing but definately harder for an onsight lead.
Alun - 14/May/04

HS is right for this - no gear until it's all over! VDiff is totally wrong. Your average VDiff leader would get a nasty fright on this, as it is a solo and the landing is awful. Moves are 4a.
Eric - 24/Jun/04

This was my 10th lead and everythign else had been a diff or a v diff or a mod. I'm still not confident. This was NOT a V Diff as on peak rock proclaimed! I scared myself stupid. Bomber protection at the top, but its esay from there! I'd certainly go with HS 4a.
Emma Hill - 02/Jul/04

unprotcted above a nasty landing on sloping ledges. Try it in the wet! People saying vdiff are dumb.
Si - 22/Jul/04

STill think this is V Diff. Soloed it soon after starting climbing & found it ok (take a deep breath at the crux), it's in balance & moving onto a good ledge.
Iain Thow - 17/Mar/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 62
    hard VS 0 of 22
    VS 0 of 22
    easy VS 0 of 22
    hard HS 1 of 22
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    3 Stars 1 of 16
    2 Stars 4 of 16
    1 Star 9 of 16
    0 Stars 1 of 16
    Bag of ..... 1 of 16

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