3 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Jitter Face < Townsend's Variation  |  The Unprintable > The Dangler >>

Intimidating and memorable. From blocks, enter the leaning groove (poor wires) then climb to the roof. Swing right and scale the bulge - strenuous then delicate - to stand on the nose. Easier climbing remains - finishing up the centre of the face is the best option though the terminally harassed can escape left.
FA. Jim Perrin 1967. He is said to have top roped it 27 times.


Load the thin crack in the first niche with v small friends and a no. 5 rock. traverse out right, a hard pull up for the next thin looking break (which is very good) then yard up for the beak, reach up for an excellent break; then another long reach up and left for a decent ledge, boss thingy. By which time you are a very long way above gear. The rock up rightwards feels a little insecure in a position you would not want to fall off from. A bomber friend 1.5 is your last gear below the top. It would be possible to get an RP in above the undercut you use to do the initial traverse out right with but I didn't bother (too busy pulling up). It is 5c but is one for the Clive Coolheads out there.
archangel - 28/Jun/04

The rockover out of the steepness is protectable with a bomber friend half (or possibly zero) in horizontal break on right.
Jon Fullwood - 28/Jun/04

A good HB/Rock 3 with poor friend 0 in the bulge/groove at head height on the initial traverse out was welcome. The friend half John is very hard to spot and was missed by me.
Simon Lee - 01/Nov/04

Yeah i put a zero in the half-cam placement which looked bomber! Awesome route which feels rather exposed when cruising the top easier section with little useful gear! ***stars
north_country_boy - 31/May/05

A very good route that feels committing but is safe enough. If you're reading this it may be too late, but for a rewarding onsight experience ignore all the confusing and unnecessary gear beta above.
gache - 14/Jul/08

The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of good holds. A great route and perfectly reasonable.
Jon Stewart - 20/Aug/13

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 27
    hard E4 0 of 9
    E4 0 of 9
    easy E4 0 of 9
    hard E3 2 of 9
    E3 6 of 9
    easy E3 1 of 9
    hard E2 0 of 9
    E2 0 of 9
    easy E2 0 of 9
    hard 6a 0 of 9
    6a 0 of 9
    easy 6a 0 of 9
    hard 5c 0 of 9
    5c 6 of 9
    easy 5c 3 of 9
    hard 5b 0 of 9
    5b 0 of 9
    easy 5b 0 of 9
    3 Stars 9 of 9
    2 Stars 0 of 9
    1 Star 0 of 9
    0 Stars 0 of 9
    Bag of ..... 0 of 9

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.