The Unprintable

2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Townsend's Variation < Censor  |  The Dangler > Tippler Direct >>

Chubbin' desperate! The left-hand crack leads to a cramped recess. The exit is difficult - swing into a layback on jams (knees!) before sprinting to safety. Only HVS for grit gurus.
FA. Don Whillans 1952


Soloed Dangler and Tippler Dt but in bulk seconding Unprintable (can't jam?).
Probably the hardest route of the popular routes on the buttress - but still only E1.
JOHN GODDING - 11/May/02

Haven't done the Dangler, but thought that The Unprintable was a real fight at E1 5b (and I can jam...). An excellent route.
Ben Tye - 13/May/02

Bloody desperate. Must be 5c, surely? Get 2 ok-ish jams in as high as you can, then kneel on the lip of the overhang before converting one to a toe (honest, it does work...) and stand up so that you layback left off the jams. Easy climbing remains!
Nick Smith - 19/Jun/02

Once again BETAFAX to the rescue. How about "Climb the corner crack. That one in front of your face. To the top."
Paz - 30/Sep/02

Watch you dont block the jams up with a friend, foothold on the right arete almost as soon as you get your knees up and its a 'one move wonder' (bloody 'ard one move though :-)
Al Evans - 07/Apr/03

Surprisingly reachy - would be quite easier with longer arms. Fair at the grade otherwise. The upper jams are glorious once you've got them, why would you waste them with a layback?? Good route, as much fun as you'd expect =).
Fiend - 26/Oct/03

Needs wise jamming technique and a strong will, 5c only for those weak of mind!
JK - 22/Oct/04

Some bloody nonesense being written as usual; this is desperate for 2 moves, feeling like 6a. OK average hands might feel better but Ive seen PROPER GOOD climbers struggle on this and that tells you it is not 5b.
ian Jones - 01/Aug/05

One might assume that those climbers are PROPER SHITE at jamming then ;)
Fiend - 08/Nov/05

Long arms might help, but long legs are definitely a hindrance. I'm six three and just couldn't do it; although I didn't try the knee approach. That said, using your knees is crap style surely? I'd feel a total arse grovelling through the overhang on my knees, who wants to do a route that legitimises that?
scott ellwood - 04/Jun/07

Al Evans (above) hit the nail on the head - it's all too easy to stuff a bomber cam into the best jam. I did!
John Parker - 28/Oct/08

...oh, and the most technical bit is the lower crack - surprisingly tricky
John Parker - 28/Oct/08

Pretty solid at E1, fine with jamming. This route is a bitch though. Couldn't reach the decent looking jams by any means I tried, didn't finish, felt harder than the dangler for a short arse. In fact I'd say Quietus feels easier.
Jon Leighton - 18/Sep/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 65
    hard E2 0 of 24
    E2 0 of 24
    easy E2 6 of 24
    hard E1 8 of 24
    E1 9 of 24
    easy E1 1 of 24
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    hard ?? 0 of 23
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    3 Stars 1 of 18
    2 Stars 17 of 18
    1 Star 0 of 18
    0 Stars 0 of 18
    Bag of ..... 0 of 18

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