Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 30
Intimidating climbing up the jutting prow. Climb the lower wall to jams below the overhang, up this with difficulty (good small wire up and left) to reach a ramp. Hand traverse rightwards up this to gain the arete and a sprint finale.
A really cool route with really cool moves past the roof. A rock 3 up and left protects the roof, (guide book says an rp, which is also possible), but is stupidly pumpy to place on the lead, better to preplace, (maybe E3 with preplaced wire).
Not worth placing the wire, just pull up and race for the top. Hard for the grade.
I went sans wire and lobbed - no problem.
Why wouldn't you put the bomber 3 rock in? classic e3/4, enjoy...
Why wouldn't I put the wire in? Because its pumpy enough as it is!
no way E4. E3, just pumpy but safe. no need for the mystery wire, just leg it
Pretty steady for E4, but very pumpy! can get a good rest with leg on ledge before roof and a toe hook/jam! Then pull over lip (forget the Rp in flake!) and just keep cranking!