3 Stars
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Chameleon < Black Hawk Bastion  |  Castle Crack > Black Hawk >>

Elegant climbing up the arete left of the big corner. The lower part is technical as far as a short vertical crack. Beefy moves on spaced holds lead up the short wall to a final shallow groove.
FA. Alan Clarke 1965


Try to place the gear in the vertical crack quickly or you may find you haven't the strength to do the crux!
Chris Moor - 29/May/03

Who voted E1?

Graham - 29/May/03

I found this hard. Maybe it's because I am short? The initial "crux" moves were really nice and not too hard. However I really struggled with the long reaches higher up. Excellent route though but very pumpy.
DaveF - 26/Jul/04

Excellent route, found it very hard and very pumpy, suprised there was no big arms symbol in the guide.
Shaun Dutton - 06/Jun/05

i was too impatient at placing gear in the vertical crack (i remembered chris's advice) & when i fell from the crux my poorly placed cam popped. the gear in the break caught me a few feet from the ground. next time i'll make sure the gear in the vertical crack is bomber & keep my weight low before comming to that sloppy ledge!!! awersome route though (the bit i managed)
leon skeldon - 19/Jul/05

Took a nice fall on to a cam in the break which kept me about 5" off the deck after rope stretch due to faffing around with a big nut in the vertical crack and cranking my left hand on that slopey ledge for too long!

Nailed it on the 2nd attempt though :)
Richard Hession - 31/Aug/05

Lovely! One of the best routes of this grade in the area...
TomPR - 05/Apr/06

Have always avoided routes with reachy symbol, but glad I didn't avoid this one - very good, but why does it get a reachy symbol - ok for me at 5 foot 2
Karen - 24/Sep/06

Realy good route GEAR BETA, a number 10 DMM Wallnut slips perfectly into the vertical crack and it holds.Got angry with myself as i reached up and right to nothing instead of up and left to the ledge. So got pumped and fell. 30 second rest then nailed it.
Adam Moroz - 08/Oct/07

Excellent route.
Shame there's not more of it.
Good hard climbng and brilliant gear.
I expected the crux to be at the bottom but that was really nice.
3 stars for sure.
richard - 20/Oct/07

excellent route, reachy but not to bad, thought it was an easy 5b but solid HVS. Gear is excellent so u can afford to give it some.
robert bridges - 03/May/08

I found the initial moves up the arete a little tricky & balancy - maybe that says something about me not being good at commitment. It is reachy, but its one of those routes short people (I'm 5'4" - respect to Karen) with a bit of power will find ok - because the holds are so good when you get them, you can use them low down to compensate. Finished right up the 5a crack (nice) as recommended in the, er, 'other' guide.
Jon Leighton - 04/Sep/08

echo robert bridges comments above. Lovely route
John Parker - 28/Oct/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 192
    hard E1 0 of 65
    E1 0 of 65
    easy E1 5 of 65
    hard HVS 30 of 65
    HVS 29 of 65
    easy HVS 1 of 65
    hard VS 0 of 65
    VS 0 of 65
    easy VS 0 of 65
    hard 5c 0 of 65
    5c 0 of 65
    easy 5c 2 of 65
    hard 5b 1 of 65
    5b 59 of 65
    easy 5b 3 of 65
    hard 5a 0 of 65
    5a 0 of 65
    easy 5a 0 of 65
    3 Stars 40 of 62
    2 Stars 20 of 62
    1 Star 2 of 62
    0 Stars 0 of 62
    Bag of ..... 0 of 62

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