Left Hand Route

1 Stars
 S-IV 5

Adjacent Routes
<< Crack Magic < Fast Burn  |  Siamese Chimneys > Right Hand Route >>

80m. Roughly climbs the summer line of Borstal Buttress starting at the third groove from the left of the frozen spring. 1) 35m. Climb the layback crack and groove to a snowy bay and pass behind a huge boulder to belay. 2) 45m. Follow a series of short grooves to the top.
FA. A.Hyslop, R.Graham


When we did this route the start was desperate - maybe even technical 7.

These pitch descriptions are alos wrong and the route is closer to 150m. 1) Climb the very hard layback crack to the snowy bay, belay at the head of this. 45m. 2) Climb up the chimney formed by the boulder (amusing) and then into grooves above. 45m. 3) Climb easier mixed ground to the cornice. 50m.

It was some time ago that I did it - March 99 - but it remains quite a clear memory!
Toby - 05/Feb/03

In russia, we use combined tactics to tackle routes such as this one. Lashing men to rocky outcrops to facilitate such moves is a favoured tactic of the top russian climbers.
Grobeg Beybo - 05/Feb/03

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