Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 144
Set in the arete is this attractive groove. Enter this using an unhelpful set of scoured holds; frequently frustrating, though with good gear. Continue up the groove to a good ledge below an overhanging block. Overcome this at its left-hand corner by a short struggle or, if you have had enough, escape off to the left.
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Shinier than your average mirror!
First section polished beyond belief. Infamous!
An absolute classic that gets better everytime I climb it. Worth its three stars - despite the polish.
Great climbing though somewhat worrying if your rack consists mainly of small wires.
The Emperor's new clothes....
mmm, lovely polish. Nice route once you get onto it though.
Tricky little bugger.If the initial groove was at the top of a route i bet it wouldnt be so polished.
spit on your hand rub the soles of your rock boots clean until they squeak. As long as you know how to jam the rest is easy.
trickier than many a sever but once past the glass a straigtforward climb with much enjoyment.
Loved it! Get a big hex into the horizontal crack from the floor and it'll save a lot of ankle trouble when you pop off the first few times (which you invariably will!). Clean shoes, precise footwork and quick sure movements are the way to get past the first few moves. 3/4 of the way up there's a bomber thread, so if you do decide to bail (but why would you??) you can always come down on this. But, like I said, why would you? Top out and pat yourself on the back. A brilliant climb.
More polish than the queen's tea-set.
An unusual nut key through the hand accident for our second on this route. Slipped off the polished footholds at bottom while proddling a stuck hex and managed to lacerate fingers to bone. Lots of gore and a trip to the Hallamshire - the joys of climbing. PS thanks to the guy who soloed it and removed our gear!
A combination of polish and numb hands resulted in two falls on the first section - a few minutes and warmer hands later - nailed it third time. Lovely route, not much gear lower down though.
not much gear !!! My impression was it's a crack in a corner, with lots of other crack surrounding it. You can lace it with gear!!!
The polished ledges at the bottom are horrid but not absolutely required. Once up to about 12 feet, it gets much easier with loads of gear. Presumably, its the protection that keeps this down at HVD.
A slippy start for the foot hold but once past the first move it is plane sailing, plenty of gear if you need it,yes to a HVD.Paul Tomo
As for everyone else, grapple with the 5b start and then enjoy the amenable and brilliant rest.