Gullible's Travels

1 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
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From the centre of the wall, trend right delicately with hard moves to reach a shallow crack and then easier ground. Pleasantly technical climbing protected by small cams.
FA. Brian Pallet (1 point of aid) 1961. FFA. Alan Clarke 1963


My first E1 Hooray!! Soloed as well!(gullible me) A bit of a soft touch. Technical moves to the cracky bit but they felt relatively safe above a bouldering mat. Pleasant climbing above gives it a routey air.
Jon Greengrass - 01/Jul/02

However, not so nice without a mat! The placements for the small friends at a useful height are either very worn (on the left and centre) or very poor (on the right) and don't inspire much confidence. Not a route to fall off.
Cheers, Tom.
Tom Hughes - 07/Apr/03

very small friends essential!
mark s davies - 26/Apr/03

The gear is good enough. I tested it on a recent damp summer's day. Certainly not a soft touch though.
dominic - 22/Jul/04

It is a bit of a soft touch, but depends on how much the dodgy friends scare you. Personally, I think the crux is one move lower than implied by the description. A mate backed off itthinking the upper slab was the hard bit. I got there, and thought that the move past the gear to stand in the break was the crux, meaning a not-horrible fall if you do come off it! Easy E1 definitely.
Pythonist - 13/Jul/05

Really not E1 if you're using a bouldering mat! Quite steady moves and very reasonale for an onsight solo-able E1
TomPR - 05/Apr/06

the friend placements scared me, though I rekon they would hold. i didn't find this a soft touch either but then again i am a baby at this grade.
leon - 24/Apr/06

I was clearly on a different route from the rest of you.
The small friends and medium wire in the horizontal crack were superb, as I proved later.
By far the hardest E1 I've ever attempted and far harder than any E2 I've ever done.
Tiny greasy sloping holds above the breaks lead to the vertical crack, but I never got into it.
The guy soloing next to me reckons the E3 version is easier.
richard - 20/Oct/07

That this is a soft touch is ridiculous. 2 or 3 5b/c moves in quick succession beside what are now very bad cam placements is definitely top-end E1 perhaps 5c.
Tom Last - 30/Dec/08

I finally got around to leading this last April. I was unhappy with the gear, unhappy with what looked like a 5c move on the "tiny greasy sloping holds above the breaks", was contemplating backing off, BUT... there is a way, and it's no harder than 5b, but you have to find it...
Tim Waterhouse - 31/Dec/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 95
    hard E2 0 of 33
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    easy E2 0 of 33
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    hard 5b 0 of 32
    5b 28 of 32
    easy 5b 2 of 32
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