The Arete

2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< The Steeple < Clotted Cream  |  Mather Crack > Electric Circus >>


22m. A long and impressive arete with steep and intimidating climbing that is high in the grade. Some of the rock is a bit soft. Avoid the initial bulge on the left then pull back right to a ledge. Continue up the scary upper section to an easier finish. The route is often started from the gully to the left which is a little easier.
FA. (in two bits) Al Evans 1976, Jim Burton (in one push) 1977, although Gabe Regan may have soloed(!) it at an earlier date.

USER COMMENTS

The real first ascent of this was by Gabe Regan, solo, after my early probings, I'm sure that was before Jim did it.
The Arete - 09/Jun/03

OMG my second Al Evan's route (sorta), that's it, I can retire now! Another good route, definitely E2 (you can fiddle in loads of wires by the rusty peg in t' ledge and it's only 5a-ish above that), maybe 5c (thin crack is hard), and surely ** (good adventure).
Fiend - 17/Aug/03

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 12
    hard E3 0 of 4
    E3 2 of 4
    easy E3 0 of 4
    hard E2 2 of 4
    E2 0 of 4
    easy E2 0 of 4
    hard E1 0 of 4
    E1 0 of 4
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    hard 5c 0 of 4
    5c 0 of 4
    easy 5c 0 of 4
    hard 5b 0 of 4
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    easy 5b 0 of 4
    hard 5a 0 of 4
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    hard 4c 0 of 4
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    hard 4b 0 of 4
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    hard 3c 0 of 4
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    hard 2c 0 of 4
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    hard 2b 0 of 4
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    hard 2a 0 of 4
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    hard ?? 0 of 4
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    3 Stars 0 of 4
    2 Stars 4 of 4
    1 Star 0 of 4
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    Bag of ..... 0 of 4

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