Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 100
A classic with many eliminate possibilities.
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Very reachy! I was playing on this one with a short friend (5'5) and he couldn't reach the holds! A couple of reachy moves bring some larger holds to hand.
sh*t f*ck b*gger a*se bl**dy h*ck the start of this route is never 5b the move of those flat undercuts with smears for your feet is more like 6a!!!
wasnt too bad - use the flatty and slap up. Was tricky though, great little problem!
Would definately agree with Jon, maybe not quite 6a, maybe 5c. Certainly quite a bit harder than Lost in France which is next door and gets 5c which i thought to be quite easy!
I broke both feet falling off this, landing on a rock with my heels. I'd done it many times before. Start is 5c, followed by easier moves. Use a mat and a spotter.
A reasonable little problem. Spent a while working it out. Hardest one at the Chant area!
ha HA! succeded at last 3 years trying finally managed it last monday. In sub zero conditions only took 3 goes and it felt piss when i did it, top move is quite scary so definitely VS. Just get you left foot on high on that vertical smear and push like hell.
the start of this route is easy aint it? like jon says, use the *big* vertical smear. thought the crux was the massive reach up with both feet high on the smears as shown in the rockfax picture.
Quite sustained but a very good micro route.
At last! After doing the crux start about 5million times I finally got the bottle to do the top, which was a bit scary, good route
Nice problem - took me a while to work out the first few moves but once I got the sequence it was fairly easy. I don't think its that bad for the short - I'm about 5'6 and had no trouble with reach - the reach from the big slot to the next hold isn't too bad if you're in balance, I almost felt I could let go and reach up for the hold.
Nice little route. Good hard start and an interesting finish. Cool solo or highball...
Did this with a broken finger and trainers in the rain whilst wearing a tracksuit. Felt about 5b.
Frightening-must be worht HVS without mat or V2 with
come on people - use the undercut and it's piss..
Just get some finger power and pull over the 1st bit on the crimps, easy!