Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 12
14m. The arete is delicate and the gear sparse where it matters. After an easy start, boldly layback the right-hand side of the arete to terrain where you can breathe again.
Comments about gear are rubbish. You can reach right and place wires.
The comment about reaching right to place wires to protect Mohammed Arete clearly misunderstands the grade. At E1 5a, you are not allowed side runners on another route. This 5a route is obviously given E1 because of the lack of gear. If you use a side runner, only award yourself a HVS tick! Better still, don't get on the route if you can't do it in the proper style. Or better still, stick your neck out and do it properly with the satisfaction of not having diluted the challenge.
Nice route, good line, good to see it gets a star. Nuts can be placed round the left of the arete too, but stick em high and the grade lowers. E15a the right grade, definitely not 5b.