Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 51
Trend right up the wall then finish direct. A bit reachy in its central section, to a high crux. Escaping right is only worth VS.
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So-so friends mean this is more than usually serious for the grade.
Don't let the first few easyish (but very nice) moves lull you into a sense of false security...
Wierd one to judge. I thought the protection was adequate - much better than the grade would suggest. I spent too much time faffing with marginal placements (due to the undeserved reputation) only to move up to find good ones so got very pumped. The climbing felt strenuous for 4c but not much harder and certainly felt more HVS than VS.
There is gear (mainly small cams) at each thin break. However it slightly overhangs and can be tiring to place.
Sneaky off right makes for a nice VS 4b and leaves just when the holds stop being perfect! If I had had a rope I'd have gone for the HVS way.
Which isn't HVS as we discovered, the gear is good and the moves aren't that hard. An eliminate goes up the wall to the right at 5c with 2 hard moves and probably warrants E1 and is well worth doing if you can reach the holds.
yep, the wall to the right is a cool little route and didn't feel too contrived to warrant a mention...hvs 5c, but only just 5c?
Did 85% of this in the 60s in my walking boots (it was only a severe in those days) and can confirm that hitting the ground from 20ft is pleasanter with a good pair of thick soles.
Difficult to grade. 4c is about right. And probably HVS. I put a rope on for the eliminate to the right - what fun! How come it's not route in it's own right? HVS 5b/5c depending on your height and worth a star.
Right hand wall now appears as Wollock Direct -HVS 5c - but I prefer to regard it as a boulder problem and then sneak off to the crack.
Good route, a bit reachy with a slightly scary finish. I'd vote HVS 4c