Kalymnos

Kalymnos is the fourth largest island in the Dodecanese chain of Greek islands, which include Kos and Rhodes, situated close to the Turkish mainland. While small at only 40 square miles it packs in an amazing range of routes on its limestone cliffs, and it's size makes it ideal for getting around without a hire car. The best of the climbing (at the moment) is concentrated around the small tourist town of Massouri, a 20 minute taxi ride from the island capital and ferry port of Pothia. Many quality 1 and 2-pitch sport routes from fine F4+ slabs to overhanging F8b stamina fests have been developed, with some spectacular climbing available on tufas and stalactites. Autumn and Springtime are the best times for climbing, with most crags in the shade until mid-afternoon, allowing you to enjoy a well deserved siesta on the beach or a swim in the sea after a hard morning of climbing.

Routes

2 boulder problems (Proj...VF3B)
3037 winter routes (3b...9a+)
1 dws route (6b+)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Emborios Area
The most remote section of cliffs from Masouri are the caves, spires and walls...
133
-^^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

0 mins

Sheltered
Palace Area
The Palace area consists of a small trio of cliffs around an open valley....
44
-^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

0 mins

Sheltered
Restricted Access
Sikati Area
Two isolated and very different climbing destinations. Sikati Cave is a huge...
60
-^^^
Sport
No sun
Downhill

30 mins

Seepage
Palionisos
The hidden bay of Palionisos on Kalymnos's north coast is now easily reached by...
109
-^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

0 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Skalia Area
A fine set of cliffs scattered around the wide amphitheatre above Skalia...
207
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Sheltered
Galatiani Area
An interesting scattering of cliffs that are generally rather neglected despite...
84
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

7 mins

Seepage
Windy
Noufaro Area
An extensive set of cliffs, just northwest of the Arhi crags, running...
68
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

Sheltered
Arhi Area
Arhi was the site of the first developments on Kalymnos. It remains the most...
184
-^^^
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Up and Down

5 mins

Sheltered
Sea Breeze Area
Sea Breeze, the adjacent Pocket Wall and the more remote Great Canyon are...
133
-^^-
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

5 mins

Windy
Arginonta
The long cliff above the village of Arginonta is a much-visited destination....
97
^^^-
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

0 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
Arginonta Skyline
The remote and quiet cliffs of Haut de Gorge, Ovoland, Little Verdon, J├Ągerwand
92
-^^-
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

 
Arginonta Valley
A set of cliffs that goes some way to easing the demand for middle-grade routes...
61
_^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

6 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
Summertime Area
A set of north-facing cliffs that offer shady climbing in the hotter months. A...
87
-^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

15 mins

Seepage
Windy
Vathy Valley
A collection of cliffs that are all reached from the road that cuts through the...
188
^^^^
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

20 mins

 
Kasteli Area
A couple of popular cliffs with a decent set of middle-grade routes. Dolphin...
72
-^--
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

10 mins

Sheltered
North Cape Area
This area has several smaller crags plus the excellent North Cape, with its...
82
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
Odyssey Area
Two contrasting crags; School has a reasonable set of easier routes plus some...
114
^^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

8 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Olympic Wall Area
This impressive pair of cliffs is set high on the hillside above Odyssey and...
59
--^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

35 mins

Seepage
Windy
Iliada Area
A fine and extensive crag running diagonally up the hillside to the right of...
83
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

Dry in the Rain
Windy
Spartacus Area
The first of the major and popular venues that run in a continuous line along...
112
-^^^
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

20 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
Grande Grotta Area
The Grande Grotta is one of the major showcase crags of Kalymnos and a...
80
--^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

17 mins

Windy
Masouri Area
The section of rock to the right of Panorama is a fine wide wall that runs all...
201
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Seepage
Gerakios to Trois Ilots
Above the small village of Myrties is a long line of cliffs that didn't see...
106
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Symplegades Area
The next section of rocky hillside to the south of Gerakios and Trois Ilots,...
87
-^^-
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Dry in the Rain
Windy
Chora and Pothia Area
Chora was the original capital of Kalymnos, set back from the sea and marauding...
59
_^^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

50 mins

Dry in the Rain
Windy
Saint Photis
The cliffs around the quaint chapel of Saint Photis were some of the first...
95
_^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

30 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Telendos
Most climbers visit Telendos at least once on their climbing trips to Kalymnos....
343
^^^^
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

20 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
  • Latest Comments

    For Kalymnos

    Mythologie (Iliada Area)
    "I thought it was more like a long 7a+!" 27/Oct

    Thetis (Arhi Area)
    "doesn't get less soapy over the years ... anyway: nice route!" 03/Oct top50

    Polifemo (Odyssey Area)
    "Onsighted and seemed fair at solid benchmark 7c." 28/May top50

    Axium (Skalia Area)
    "7a about right and it only gets that because of the finish. the climbing up to t..." 06/Jul

    Joy in the Garden (Skalia Area)
    "Very joyful 6a+ climbing on this 28 mtrs route." 06/Jul top50

    Axium (Skalia Area)
    "If Thimari is 7a+ (reasonable here), this one is 6c!" 06/Jul

    Dolonas (Iliada Area)
    "super route - big roof but bouldery! not it has an extention - " Valley of ..." 12/Dec

    Palamas (Masouri Area)
    "This route is now ranked 6c Worth doing - be carefull, crux is just over a vir..." 27/Sep

    Gladiator (Spartacus Area)
    "Really quality route, 3* for sure for me. Varied pumpy climbing on tufas blobs a..." 08/Jun top50

    Dafni (Skalia Area)
    "Easier than totenhansel" 04/Jun

    Polifemo (Odyssey Area)
    "Harder than many kalymnos 7c's, but probably ok when you've got the move sorted...." 26/Apr top50

    Ektor (Iliada Area)
    "The crux is much harder than the rest of the route which slightly spoils it in m..." 15/Apr

    Rognol (Galatiani Area)
    "Take care to a loose flake and some doubtful holds." 23/Mar

    Calipso (Odyssey Area)
    "Start now very polished. I had to slap a move with my feet threatening to pop. T..." 19/Nov

    Damokles (Kasteli Area)
    "Stay left of the bolts on the upper wall to claim the 6a." 10/Nov

    Pipe Cleaner (Masouri Area)
    "Very nic tufa climbing, but over-rated: 7a+ seems right, as written on the rock...." 08/Nov

    Pindaros (Masouri Area)
    "Oct 09, Lower off complete with crab and chain." 23/Oct

    Ixion (Masouri Area)
    "Another great pitch. Easier than Nickel. I thought 7a was sufficient." 19/Oct

    Ibria (Masouri Area)
    "Sharp at the crux." 19/Oct

    Ziegen Peter (Spartacus Area)
    "In the local guide book, Ziegen Peter is 18m, and the 6b Astree extension is ano..." 05/Oct

    Beautiful Helen (Iliada Area)
    "I must agree with Iain. This one is a contender for the best 6a+ route I've ever..." 11/Sep top50

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