Lofoten

This section of the database contains routes from the forthcoming Lofoten Climbs

Routes

469 boulder problems (N3...A3)
98 winter routes (3+...8b)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The West
Lofoten's western island of Moskenesøya is well known for its amazing scenery wi
39
_-^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

90 mins

Windy
Eggum
A rarity on Lofoten, a selection of hard, ever-dry sport routes, tucked away on...
33
_--^
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Rørvika
There are a number of minor venues around the superb sandy beach of Rørvika. The
18
----
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Pianokrakken Area
Pianokrakken (the Piano Stool) is one of the most popular cliffs in the guide;...
53
-^^^
Trad
Morning sun
Up and Down

2 mins

Sheltered
Djupfjord
The road towards Henningsvær crosses the narrow neck of Djupfjord on a causeway,
42
-^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

60 mins

Windy
Presten
The unmistakable conical bulk of Presten (The Priest) dominates the coastal...
26
_--^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
Gandalf
This almost roadside cliff is a great destination for any Lofoten climber,...
35
_-^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

Sheltered
Festvåg
Park at a lay-by (room for half-a-dozen cars) on the outside of the bend just...
61
-^^-
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
The Coast
The spectacular section of coast between Henningsvær and Kalle is one with huge
19
_---
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level

60 mins

Windy
Paradiset
Paradiset is located just to the southwest of the tiny fishing village of...
80
^^^-
Trad
Morning sun
Up and Down

0 mins

 
Vågakallen
With its huge rock precipices on almost every side, Austvågøy's dominant and mos
10
----
Trad
Morning sun
Up and Down

0 mins

 
Øvredalen
The slabby and sunny side of the attractive valley, opposite the soaring...
12
----
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Up and Down

0 mins

 
Kallebukta
The drive to the parking for Paradiset passes the superb sandy beach at...
10
_---
Trad
Morning sun
Up and Down

0 mins

 
Trolldalen
Easily seen when driving towards Kalle from the E10, the Trolls' Fortress is a...
20
--^-
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and Down

0 mins

 
Glåmtinden
Popular with the locals and visitors alike, this small but classy mountain...
4
--__
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

0 mins

 
Sandvika
A collection of short sport routes in a secluded setting, very close to the...
21
_---
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and Down

0 mins

 
Urdstabben
The second of the four small crags near the town of Kabelvåg, Urdstabben has a n
20
--^-
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and Down

0 mins

 
Tjelbergvika
Tjeldbergvika is the least important of the four small cliffs near Kabelvåg, con
10
_---
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

0 mins

 
Finnvika
A fine dome of excellent rock, in a sunny situation and only a short distance...
12
_---
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and Down

0 mins

 
Svolvær
12
----
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

0 mins

 
The Northeast
Located northeast of Svolvær, Nordre Austvågøya is the glaciated and unspoiled h
16
----
Trad
Evening sun
Up and Down

0 mins

 
Stetind
Many climbers who make the long trek to climb in the Magic Islands also aspire...
7
----
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and Down

0 mins

 
Stetind - Outlying Peaks
There are several other peaks and classic climbs in the Stetind area that are...
7
--__
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

0 mins

 
  • Latest Comments

    For Lofoten

    Fish Restaurant (Djupfjord)
    "OK, lot of ledges, so never really exposed. Pianohandler Lunds rute for grown up..." 16/Sep

    Lille vakre Anna (Eggum)
    "One of the easiest routes in the cave. Stays dry. Two hard moves on the top." 10/Dec

    The Next Best Thing (The West)
    "On the upper part (above the ledge), the grades are not correct : it's more like..." 25/Aug

    Straight Albatross (Festvåg)
    "Solid rock, average climbing. Worthwile if you did the other routes...." 08/Jul

    Frøken Sverige (Pianokrakken Area)
    "Added a route up the blunt rib to the left of Frøken Sverige: "Ångermanland" 23/Jun

    Bare blåbær (Djupfjord)
    "Length for pitch 2 is incorrect. Its more like 23m than 34m" 22/Jul top50

    Borr i Bekkmørtna (The West)
    "An Excelent route worth to climb! From pitch 3 goes straight up, following crack..." 18/Jul

    Vårkåt (The Coast)
    "Back to Varkat: Steep and Solid. Top10, for sure. The first pitch is pretty e..." 14/Jul

    Gandalf (Gandalf)
    "The first pitch is quite polished. We went wrong on pitch 2, and ended up on Gun..." 08/Dec top50

    Butter Arms (Paradiset)
    "nothing smaller than friend #1 / camalot #.5 needed (except a small wire to aid ..." 15/Aug top50

    Love Me Two Times (Paradiset)
    "There's a nice climb up flakes trending up left from this hand-crack start (whic..." 06/Aug

    Running for Rasmus (Festvåg)
    "Maybe we did not understand where the last pitch goes? It was like 4+/5-?" 03/Aug

    Permit to Åsgård (The West)
    "Rob Lamey roblamey@hotmail.co.uk Top quality route, a must adventure up the ..." 27/Jul

    Storpillaren (Vågakallen)
    "The approach is depending on the water. If wet, you might take a rope on 2 place..." 23/Jul top50

    Bare blåbær (Djupfjord)
    "Incredible route and beautiful view. Would agree that the walk in is 90 minut..." 02/Jul top50

    Vestpillaren (Presten)
    "I find it way easier then the direct start, but really good to climb. Best is do..." 09/Jun top50

    Storpillaren (Vågakallen)
    "Hello, It's question about rack recommendation, assuming we intend to climmb li..." 22/Mar top50

    Svenske diedret (Paradiset)
    "Climbed this on 1 August 1982 and noted "possible 1st lead" in my clim..." 09/Aug

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