Northern England

The routes, star ratings and grades in this section correspond exactly to the Northern England Rockfax published in February 2008. If you have a comment about any particular route, or an opinion on the grade or star-rating - agree or disagree - then this is the place to have your say. All opinions are taken into consideration when we update the guidebook.

Routes

1975 boulder problems (M...E9)
313 ice routes (f3...f8B+)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Caley
Almost an urban cliff, Caley is the quick-hit of choice for Leeds-based...
91
^^^^
Trad
No sun
Uphill

5 mins

Sheltered
Scugdale
This lovely little edge is the most popular venue on the North York Moors and...
119
^^^-
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

8 mins

Sheltered
Wainstones
The Wainstones is one of the original climbing venues of the North York Moors,...
65
^^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

25 mins

 
Raven's Scar
An impressively situated crag with a big feel about it, Raven's Scar wouldn't...
38
-^^-
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

15 mins

Seepage
Highcliff Nab
Highcliff Nab sits in a splendid position just to the south of Guisborough. The...
19
----
Trad
No sun
Uphill

20 mins

 
Park Nab
A tiny cliff in a lovely setting, with a good selection of climbs, and only a...
27
^^--
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

 
Causey Quarry
Not one of the North East's prime venues, but the cliff's accessibility,...
24
-^--
Trad
No sun
Downhill

3 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Crag Lough
An austere crag with a long climbing history - the most impressive cliff in...
42
^^--
Trad
Evening sun
Up and Down

20 mins

Restricted Access
Peel Crag
The western extension of Crag Lough has a similar ambience, though in general...
25
----
Trad
Evening sun
Downhill

10 mins

 
Callerhues
A small cliff, up to about 10m high, in a superbly wild setting - up on the...
49
--^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

40 mins

 
Great Wanney
A fine crag with many excellent climbs across the grade range, including a...
46
^^-^
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

20 mins

 
East Woodburn
Also known as Staniel Heugh, this nice little crag, with four small buttresses,...
20
---_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

 
Sandy Crag
Sandy Crag (marked as Key Heugh on some maps) has a small selection of climbs...
19
_---
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

50 mins

 
Ravensheugh
Ravensheugh is perhaps Northumberland's most enigmatic venue; a super crag in a...
83
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

50 mins

 
Pule Hill
78
^^--
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

 
Simonside
A fine cliff in a lovely setting, though tilted a bit too much towards the...
68
^^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

30 mins

 
Drake Stone
Reputedly Northumberland's biggest boulder; this interesting little venue is in...
14
----
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
Corby's Crag
Corby's is a lovely cliff in an idyllic setting, with a good spread of routes,...
44
-^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Downhill

3 mins

Sheltered
Bowden Doors
Perhaps the archetypal Northumbrian crag, Bowden Doors has everything; over 150...
126
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

3 mins

 
Back Bowden Doors
A lovely crag tucked away in a sheltered wooded valley to the west of Belford....
59
--^^
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Downhill

5 mins

Sheltered
Kyloe in the Wood
An accurate name for a lovely little crag hidden away in a huge and silent...
70
^^^^
Bouldering
Sun and shade
Level

15 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Kyloe out the Wood
A small but varied set of buttresses tucked away in a sheltered valley, often...
59
^^--
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

10 mins

Sheltered
Berryhill
A charming little cliff, the most northerly in the book, tucked away in a...
26
----
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

10 mins

Restricted Access
Shooter's Nab
25
-^--
Trad
No sun
Uphill

30 mins

Restricted Access
Heptonstall Quarry
20
_---
Trad
Afternoon sun
Downhill

10 mins

Sheltered
Widdop
40
-^--
Trad
No sun
Uphill

15 mins

 
Earl Crag
62
-^^^
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

5 mins

 
Ilkley
150
^^^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

3 mins

Sheltered
The Chevin
16
----
Trad
No sun
Uphill

7 mins

 
Almscliff
118
^^^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

 
Eastby
16
----
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

Sheltered
Restricted Access
Crookrise
61
^^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

 
Rylstone
63
^^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

35 mins

 
Simon's Seat
32
-^--
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

40 mins

 
Brimham Rocks
172
^^^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

2 mins

Sheltered
Eavestone Crag
30
--^-
Trad
Sun and shade
Downhill

3 mins

Sheltered
Slipstones
173
^^^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

15 mins

 
Crag Willas
53
^^--
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

30 mins

 
Goldsborough Carr
47
^-^-
Bouldering
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

 
  • Latest Comments

    For Northern England

    Whisky Wall (Almscliff)
    "Led this after top rope practice. Great moves and a good route but very runout a..." 20/Mar

    Right-hand Crack (Brimham Rocks)
    "Climed for the first time on 27-06-15. I decided to climb it without any cams an..." 28/Jun top50

    Sunset (Peel Crag)
    "My first lead for 20 years and what a great way to get back into the swing of th..." 14/Apr top50

    S Crack (Ilkley)
    ""Wide start"? - Awkward finger jams, probably 5a, but rest has big hol..." 25/Mar

    Curving Crack (Heptonstall Quarry)
    "Pretty honest VS 4C jamming, this one." 23/Mar

    Poseidon Adventure (Bowden Doors)
    "A small hold on the top wall has broken off (Jan/Mar 15). this makes the (usual)..." 03/Mar top50

    Take No Notice (Brimham Rocks)
    "Does this route go straight up or move left at the top to the large pocket? It's..." 17/Nov

    Moby Dick (Raven's Scar)
    "I'm not sure what grade this is as I backed off, but it's definitely not HS 4b! ..." 25/Jun

    The Padder (Eastby)
    "An excellent slab, and well-loved - certainly not just 1*. @Luke: Always amus..." 09/Aug

    Letterbox Wall (Causey Quarry)
    "I tricky move away from the letter box" 12/Jun

    Ricochet Wall (Shooter's Nab)
    "Very very good!" 10/Jun top50

    Rat au Vin (Earl Crag)
    "Sandbag!" 03/May

    Frankland's Green Crack (Almscliff)
    "Dirty and very awkward. How long does it take the symptoms of Pigeon-Fancier's ..." 21/Apr top50

    Angel's Wall (Caley)
    "Not in any way a boulder problem - why change from HVS 5a?" 28/Mar

    East Sphinx Direct (Wainstones)
    "I go with Franco @ HS 5b - hard move(s) all low down." 23/Sep

    Spinnaker (Eavestone Crag)
    "The move off the first ledge is quite reachy, definitely harder for the short." 23/Aug

    Birdlime Traverse (Almscliff)
    "Seems a funny choice to upgrade to HVS - yes it's really hard at that grade, but..." 02/Aug top50

    Gary Cooper (Caley)
    "Originally soled and given a grade of HVS!" 20/Jun

    Anticyclone (Heptonstall Quarry)
    "This description is incorrect. Anticyclone climbs TRL until it is possible to sw..." 06/Jun

    Impregnable (Slipstones)
    "Yes there is, more obvious from the ground than when up there..." 28/Mar

    Ch-Ching (Raven's Scar)
    "I can't delete them but I take back most of the above comments! I did a climb b..." 11/Jan

    Thumper (Eastby)
    "Onsighted this and thought benchmark E4 5c, soft. Also onsighted the direct star..." 13/Oct top50

    Pieces of Eight (Drake Stone)
    "Climbed this yesterday - it's nowhere near 5b. Like the previous poster, I recko..." 01/Oct

    Mousehole Slab (Earl Crag)
    "HVS 4c - pretty nasty sandbag at VS and could hurt someone. The move to get your..." 21/Aug

    Extraction (Rylstone)
    "Can't believe it's only got 2 stars in the guide books. This is one of the very ..." 29/Jul

    Audacity (Corby's Crag)
    "14 July 2011 Just visited Audacity and found that some mindless vandals have pus..." 18/Jul

    Desperate Dan (Ilkley)
    "Brilliant route and pretty safe with a couple of mats. Modern highballing at it..." 27/Jun top50

    Oak Tree Slab (Ilkley)
    "How can an unprotected 4b slab get S 4b? MVS 4b would be closer, or maybe HS 4a ..." 15/Jun

    Fag Slab Variant (Brimham Rocks)
    "Not straightforward. Feet! Are you supposed to go straight up at top of overla..." 09/Jun

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