Adjacent Areas
< Upper Ferocity | Upper Cliff >
The showpiece crag of southern Britain for state-of-the-art hard sport-climbs. The streaked wall overhangs for its full length, and the climbs are as ferocious as they appear.
Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Big Jim 10m. This route has got a touch overgrown but it is worthwhile if the ivy is cleaned off. 1 user comment | Technical Pumpy | E1 5b |
2 |
Tiny Tim 10m. A good little crack pitch which can be spoilt if ivy chokes the cracks. | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
3 |
Timeless Skies 10m. Good pocketed wall climbing. Move up to a rounded pocket and then rightwards to a peg. Now climb the wall above passing a... | Technical Pumpy | E2 5c |
4 |
Crook Bruce 16m. Climb up left of the stuck on conglomerate pancake to a peg. Continue to a Z-shaped crack and then head right strenuously... | 1 Stars Strong Fluttery | E4 6a |
5 |
Avant-garde 18m. Move directly up the wall above the Z-crack of Crook Bruce past a peg and thread. | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | E5 6b |
6 |
Heathen Man Very good, if a little sharp on the finger tips. Start on the fallen slab, near the top of the steep path beneath the... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b |
7 |
Sun of Righteousness 17m. A tough beginning followed by some easier but still draining arm work. | 1 Stars Technical | 7b+ |
8 |
Uzi in My Pocket 17m. An impressive route with a short and intense crux. Finish on Heathen Man. The bolts are awkwardly placed on the crux. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b+ |
9 |
Empire of the Sun Top 50 One of the West Country's great sport-routes. Low in the grade, but very pumpy and a touch polished. Start beneath a pocketed... 7 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7b+ |
10 |
Empire Direct 20m. The bold start can be avoided by a more technical right-hand variation. | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7b+ |
11 |
Just Revenge Top 50 20m. A superb, steep challenge which builds to a reachy climax. 2 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy Technical Pumpy | 7c+ |
12 |
Avenged Top 50 Brilliant moves up the highest section of the wall just right of Empire of the Sun. Start 3m left of the arete.Stretch up... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Reachy Pumpy | 7c+ |
13 |
Might and Main Top 50 The huge bow-shaped arete has lots of difficult moves punctuated with good rests. Start at the base of the... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
14 |
Rise 'n' Shine 23m. A rising traverse line starting up Son of Righteousness and finishing as for Might and Main. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7b+ |
15 |
The Waffle Supremacy 16m. A tough eliminate which is too close to other routes but it does have a few good moves. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 7b+ |
16 |
Mitre Direct 18m. Start up Might and Main then pull through the bulge to the right. Continue directly to some hard moves past a single bolt.... | 1 Stars Technical | E4 6a |
17 |
The Mitre A snaking line featuring exposed positions and very steep climbing. Start 2m right of the base of the arete.Powerful moves... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Strong | E3 |
18 |
The Mightier 16m. Powerful. Steep climbing up the bulging right-hand side of the wall. No slinking off rightwards on the ledge by the crux. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 7c+ |
19 |
The Mightiest 14m. Climb up to, and boulder past, the single bolt. Scramble off right or find another bolt to lower-off from. Poor. | Strong | 7a+ |
20 |
How the Mighty Fall Unusual climbing on large sloping holds gains a heart-stopping finish. Start 2m right of the arete.Move up and right to... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
21 |
Time Bandits 16m. The left-hand bolt line. 1 user comment | Technical Pumpy | 6c+ |
22 |
End of an Era 16m. The crack is bolted. At the top stretch left to lower-off. | Pumpy | 6a |
23 |
Devonshire Cream Top 50 The eye-catching left arete of the wall is a stunning, but bold undertaking. Start beneath the arete on its right-hand... | 3 Stars Fluttery | E5 |
24 |
La Crème The white, overlap-strewn groove provides a classy piece of technical climbing. Requires crisp conditions. Start just down and... | 3 Stars Technical | 7c+ |
25 |
Sole Fusion 13m. A variation to Devonshire Cream. Clip the first bolt on Devonshire Cream and then make a wild traverse rightwards to a... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E5 6a |
26 |
Cream Topping 13m. Another variation but this time move right from above the second bolt on Devonshire Cream. | 1 Stars Fluttery | E6 6a |
27 |
Tuppence A superb testpiece taking on the centre of the wall. Start right of a thin right-slanting crack.Dynamic moves gain a good... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8b |
28 |
Tuppence Ha'penny 17m. A leftwards extension from above the hard climbing of Tuppence pushes the overall difficulty up. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | 8b |
29 |
A Fisherman's Tale An improbable line up the steepest and blankest section of the Ferocity Wall. Start at a sloping shelf that cuts in from the... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Strong | 8b |
30 |
Poppy 16m. Utterly desperate! Allow a slack rope when passing the third bolt since a tight rope reduces the grade dramatically. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8b+ |
31 |
Postman Pat 16m. A link-up route which enables the upper part of Fisherman’s Tale to be sampled at a more amenable grade. Photo page 302. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8a+ |
32 |
The Cider Soak Top 50 A very impressive sport route. Start at the sloping shelf that cuts in from the right.Stand on the shelf and move up to a... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8a |
33 |
Brian The hardest sport climb in the south of the UK takes in the crux of Tuppence and a whole lot more hard climbing. Start as for... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8c+ |
34 |
The Lynch Top 50 Brilliant and brutal. The overhanging groove and crack on the right-hand side of the wall is a classic of its genre. Start... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7b+ |
35 |
Pet Cemetery 15m. Although this link-up gives a miniscule amount of new climbing it is very worthwhile. From the 5th bolt on The Lynch make... | 2 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8a+ |
36 |
Rawhide 12m. An uninspiring line and the bolts are old. 1 user comment | Strong | 7a |