Rockfax | Databases | Anstey's Cove > Mitre and Ferocity Walls

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Sport

Early morning sun

8 mins

Downhill

The showpiece crag of southern Britain for state-of-the-art hard sport-climbs. The streaked wall overhangs for its full length, and the climbs are as ferocious as they appear.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Big Jim 10m. This route has got a touch overgrown but it is worthwhile if the ivy is cleaned off. 1 user comment	Technical Pumpy	E1 5b
2	Tiny Tim 10m. A good little crack pitch which can be spoilt if ivy chokes the cracks.	1 Stars Pumpy	HVS 5a
3	Timeless Skies 10m. Good pocketed wall climbing. Move up to a rounded pocket and then rightwards to a peg. Now climb the wall above passing a...	Technical Pumpy	E2 5c
4	Crook Bruce 16m. Climb up left of the stuck on conglomerate pancake to a peg. Continue to a Z-shaped crack and then head right strenuously...	1 Stars Strong Fluttery	E4 6a
5	Avant-garde 18m. Move directly up the wall above the Z-crack of Crook Bruce past a peg and thread.	1 Stars Technical Pumpy	E5 6b
6	Heathen Man Very good, if a little sharp on the finger tips. Start on the fallen slab, near the top of the steep path beneath the... 3 user comments	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	7b
7	Sun of Righteousness 17m. A tough beginning followed by some easier but still draining arm work.	1 Stars Technical	7b+
8	Uzi in My Pocket 17m. An impressive route with a short and intense crux. Finish on Heathen Man. The bolts are awkwardly placed on the crux. 2 user comments	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	7b+
9	Empire of the Sun Top 50 One of the West Country's great sport-routes. Low in the grade, but very pumpy and a touch polished. Start beneath a pocketed... 7 user comments	3 Stars Pumpy	7b+
10	Empire Direct 20m. The bold start can be avoided by a more technical right-hand variation.	1 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy	7b+
11	Just Revenge Top 50 20m. A superb, steep challenge which builds to a reachy climax. 2 user comments	3 Stars Reachy Technical Pumpy	7c+
12	Avenged Top 50 Brilliant moves up the highest section of the wall just right of Empire of the Sun. Start 3m left of the arete.Stretch up... 1 user comment	3 Stars Reachy Pumpy	7c+
13	Might and Main Top 50 The huge bow-shaped arete has lots of difficult moves punctuated with good rests. Start at the base of the... 3 user comments	2 Stars Technical	6c+
14	Rise 'n' Shine 23m. A rising traverse line starting up Son of Righteousness and finishing as for Might and Main.	1 Stars Pumpy	7b+
15	The Waffle Supremacy 16m. A tough eliminate which is too close to other routes but it does have a few good moves. 1 user comment	1 Stars	7b+
16	Mitre Direct 18m. Start up Might and Main then pull through the bulge to the right. Continue directly to some hard moves past a single bolt....	1 Stars Technical	E4 6a
17	The Mitre A snaking line featuring exposed positions and very steep climbing. Start 2m right of the base of the arete.Powerful moves... 1 user comment	3 Stars Technical Strong	E3
18	The Mightier 16m. Powerful. Steep climbing up the bulging right-hand side of the wall. No slinking off rightwards on the ledge by the crux. 1 user comment	2 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy	7c+
19	The Mightiest 14m. Climb up to, and boulder past, the single bolt. Scramble off right or find another bolt to lower-off from. Poor.	Strong	7a+
20	How the Mighty Fall Unusual climbing on large sloping holds gains a heart-stopping finish. Start 2m right of the arete.Move up and right to... 2 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	7a+
21	Time Bandits 16m. The left-hand bolt line. 1 user comment	Technical Pumpy	6c+
22	End of an Era 16m. The crack is bolted. At the top stretch left to lower-off.	Pumpy	6a
23	Devonshire Cream Top 50 The eye-catching left arete of the wall is a stunning, but bold undertaking. Start beneath the arete on its right-hand...	3 Stars Fluttery	E5
24	La Crème The white, overlap-strewn groove provides a classy piece of technical climbing. Requires crisp conditions. Start just down and...	3 Stars Technical	7c+
25	Sole Fusion 13m. A variation to Devonshire Cream. Clip the first bolt on Devonshire Cream and then make a wild traverse rightwards to a...	1 Stars Fluttery	E5 6a
26	Cream Topping 13m. Another variation but this time move right from above the second bolt on Devonshire Cream.	1 Stars Fluttery	E6 6a
27	Tuppence A superb testpiece taking on the centre of the wall. Start right of a thin right-slanting crack.Dynamic moves gain a good... 1 user comment	3 Stars Technical Crimpy	8b
28	Tuppence Ha'penny 17m. A leftwards extension from above the hard climbing of Tuppence pushes the overall difficulty up. 1 user comment	1 Stars Technical	8b
29	A Fisherman's Tale An improbable line up the steepest and blankest section of the Ferocity Wall. Start at a sloping shelf that cuts in from the... 1 user comment	3 Stars Technical Strong	8b
30	Poppy 16m. Utterly desperate! Allow a slack rope when passing the third bolt since a tight rope reduces the grade dramatically. 1 user comment	3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy	8b+
31	Postman Pat 16m. A link-up route which enables the upper part of Fisherman’s Tale to be sampled at a more amenable grade. Photo page 302. 1 user comment	3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy	8a+
32	The Cider Soak Top 50 A very impressive sport route. Start at the sloping shelf that cuts in from the right.Stand on the shelf and move up to a... 1 user comment	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	8a
33	Brian The hardest sport climb in the south of the UK takes in the crux of Tuppence and a whole lot more hard climbing. Start as for... 4 user comments	3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy	8c+
34	The Lynch Top 50 Brilliant and brutal. The overhanging groove and crack on the right-hand side of the wall is a classic of its genre. Start... 3 user comments	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	7b+
35	Pet Cemetery 15m. Although this link-up gives a miniscule amount of new climbing it is very worthwhile. From the 5th bolt on The Lynch make...	2 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy	8a+
36	Rawhide 12m. An uninspiring line and the bolts are old. 1 user comment	Strong	7a

Mitre and Ferocity Walls

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