Josephine

Adjacent Areas
< Wellington Crack  |  The Cow >

Trad
No sun
3 mins
Uphill
Windy

The right-hand wall of the quarry has a great selection of routes with many of them in the ever-popular orange zone. There is a couple of days climbing here for most.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Propeller Wall
14m. Starting behind the rockfall, climb the two part arete, passing the grubby break, to escalating difficulties on the upper...
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
E4
2
Old Crack
14m. The first crack in the wall gives a good strenuous pitch.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS
3
S Crack
14m. A venerable and varied classic. The wide start is tricky, the rest is sustained and interesting.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS
4
Fairy Wall
14m. The wall has a hard mantel move to reach the break (cam runner) and a sustained upper section.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E2
5
Fairy Steps
14m. Climb the ledgy rib (polished) to a position below the left-trending ramp. Gain this direct or, easier, by moving right...
 
1 Stars
HVD
6
V Chimney
14m. The cleft between the two smoother walls has a torrid exit.
 
Graunchy
VS
7
Josephine Super Direct
14m. Climb the twin cracks (awkward to start) then continue to the bird-limed cave. Finish up the bulging groove directly...
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
VS
8
Cherry Valley Rib
14m. Follow the twinned cracks until the narrow buttress on the left can be gained, just above the jutting beak. Finish boldly...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS
9
Josephine Direct
16m. Follow the Super Direct to the poo, then make a tricky move right to another ledge and climb into the sentry box before...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS
10
Little John
14m. Balance across the tip of the slab to the rib, then move up and left to join Josephine Direct.
 E1
11
Little John Direct
A worthwhile problem up the rib.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6C
12
Short Circuit
14m. The centre of the wall is tricky (f5+) to start and bold to finish. From the ledges, finish up Josephine Direct.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E2
13
Josephine
18m. Climb the left-trending cracks to reach ledges (possible stance for those practising multi-pitch). Continue left, passing...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HS
14
Napoleon
14m. Start as for Josephine but continue direct up the jamming cracks above the mid-route ledge.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS
15
Blucher
14m. The right-hand crack and groove directly above the start of Josephine provide a worthwhile alternative finish.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS
16
Tufted Crack Top 50
14m. The right-hand crack in the headwall looks innocuous enough but proves to be a struggle. Too fat for fingers and too thin...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E1
17
Spider Wall
The right-hand side of the wall on slippery and unhelpful holds.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
f6A
18
Earwig Rib
The arete on the right is harder again.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6B
19
Walewska Top 50
16m. Arguably the best VS in the quarry. Take a good supply of big stuff. Climb steeply to the first ledge then step right and...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VS
20
Botterill's Crack
12m. The wide crack right of the quarry entrance is a struggle.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS
21
Flake Crack
10m. The short flake-crack on the far right to a rightward exit. The crack swallows gear and doesn't always give it back.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS
  • Latest Comments

    For ILKLEY

    S Crack
    ""Wide start"? - Awkward finger jams, probably 5a, but rest has big hol..." 25/Mar

    Desperate Dan
    "Brilliant route and pretty safe with a couple of mats. Modern highballing at it..." 27/Jun top50

    Oak Tree Slab
    "How can an unprotected 4b slab get S 4b? MVS 4b would be closer, or maybe HS 4a ..." 15/Jun

    Bald Eagle
    "Can't understand the E grade. No worthwhile gear on the hard bit. A fall from th..." 21/May

    Wellington Crack
    "Inspired by the 80s photo of JD I fulfilled the long held ambition of a solo asc..." 18/Jun top50

    Black Chimney
    "Just squeeze inside and squirm upwards - not much gear, but it'd be hard to fall..." 04/Jun

    New Statesman
    "Hard E8 with unprotected crux (7a) above back breaking boulder. Filed down rp 2s..." 12/May

    Tufted Crack
    "Finally got it. 2yrs on and it's still a bitch. I can now say I enjoyed it, I th..." 15/Mar top50

    Shock Horror
    "fell off from top, twice. Its a long way. The fall is a privallage." 14/Sep

    Cherry Valley Rib
    "One of the easiest HVS's in the area - so long as you don't mind the bold [but w..." 28/Aug

    Walker's Hangover
    "Hard for HVS, at the top of the crack and the top of the arete. Definitely felt..." 27/Aug

    Peg Crack
    "Nice, but definitely not worth HVS. VS 4b?" 25/Aug

    Milky Way
    "Absolutely brilliant - couldn't get much better than this! Better than London Wa..." 09/Aug top50

    Snap Decision
    "Now one new peg runner - the upper peg is sadly no longer with us" 21/Jul

    Blucher
    "The difficulties are short and well protected - would make a good first VS (thou..." 18/Jun

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