Long Wall

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Trad
No sun
2 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The left-hand section is the well-named Long Wall, which is home to some reasonable short (and not so short) routes, mostly with grotty exits. An abseil descent is normal - care required with the fixed gear.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Irish Jig
The zig-zagging crack to a choice of (dirty) exits. Down and left is the easiest escape
1 user comment
 VS
2
Hadrian's Wall
From the fallen block pull past the right edge of the cave and use broken flakes to power up to the tree. Hard!
 
Crimpy
E1
3
Ash Tree Direct
Take the crack to above the roof then head left to the tree.
 S
4
The Ramp
The fingery wall eases as soon as the ramp is reached.
 VS
5
Cancan
A good jamming-crack leads to a slanting slab. Escape left up this or tackle the thin crack above to a sea of grot.
 VS
6
Elderberry Slab
The diagonal ramp leads left all the way to the tree.
 VD
7
Calypso Crack
The sinuous and disjointed crack is tough to start.
 VS
8
Quickstep
Pull over the overlap and climb the crack to tricky moves onto the slab above.
 VS
9
Fire-power
The thin crack on tips jams and one good locker.Pass Me That Araldite... Please, E1 6b is the flake just right.
 
Crimpy
E1
10
Jive
Climb onto a ledge then take the crack as it bends left towards the roof. Escape right round this to an awful exit.
 HS
11
Palais Glide
Steep and pumpy. Climb the groove to the roof then layback round it. At the second roof move right again to finish. Iron hoop...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
VS
12
Fox-trot
Climb straight into the leaning groove, at its top step out left and teeter across to the steep crack above and a sprint...
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS
13
Mississippi Dip
Follow the ramp to the groove on Fox-trot but pull onto a slab then exit out right to reach a crack. Up this to awkward final...
 
1 Stars
VS
14
A Stretch Named Desire
Climb direct through the traverse of Long Wall Eliminate. Slink right at the top to the finish of Orchestral Crack.
 
Technical
E5
15
Long Wall Eliminate
Climb the groove the tackle the fierce left-slanting crack to join and finish (with luck) up Mississippi Dip.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3
16
Orchestral Crack
The groove that bounds the wall, steeply, to an awkward exit at an old piece of angle iron. The better belay as for Three Notch...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
17
Three Notch Slab
The classic of the crag - well sort of. Skip onto the ledge then cross the slab rightwards and layback up the arete to a...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VS
18
Low Level Traverse
Traverse the low break. The starts of most of the routes are also good problems.
 f6A+
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  • Latest Comments

    For DEN LANE QUARRY

    Palais Glide
    "crux is a nice layback move with a tricky move right to gain a stance. new bolts..." 17/Mar

    The Wilter
    "Perhaps that should be "select a way off carefully?". Or does it refer..." 22/Jun

    Irish Jig
    "The best finish (safest) is to move left to a small ledge above the first arete,..." 04/Mar

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