Uncles Nose to Scot Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Romulus and Remus to Adam and Eve >

Trad
Lots of sun!
10 mins
Uphill

Three buttresses on the far left with an interesting collection of routes. This area is usually very quiet and the views to the west are excellent. The best climbing is on Scot Buttress. It is easily recognised by the converging cracks of Bawbee and Blaeberryall very Scottish.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Aunties
5m. The tricky left arete of the tower. No bridging backwards.
 
Technical
VS
2
Rake's Progress
5m. Trend right across the face to a fluted finale.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
D
3
Uncles
6m. A short crack leads to the final wall, with its trio of pockets.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
VS
4
Straight and Narrow
8m. The right-hand edge of the buttress is pleasant.
 
Rounded
VD
5
Parson's Chimney
4m. The tiny chimney on the left.
 M
6
Hand Jive
4m. Fingery climbing leads to a tricky exit. Avoid using the arete.
 
Technical
Crimpy
VS
7
Jivers' Wall
5m. Stretchy and fingery moves up the centre of the wall.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
VS
8
Bop Route
5m. The arete of the front face leads to a shallow groove.
 
1 Stars
S
9
Bopped
5m. Battle the bulge on the front of the buttress.
 
Pumpy
VS
10
Zoot Route
5m. A good little number up the wall and groove left of The Nose.
 
2 Stars
VD
11
The Nose
4m. Tackle the jutting snout on its right side. Short but sharp.
 
Strong
HVS
12
The Vallum
5m. The left edge of the wall leads to a short wide crack.
 S
13
Hadrian's Wall
5m. Foot-traverse the short slanting crack, then climb direct up the middle of the wall.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HS
14
Corner Direct Left-hand
6m. Head directly up the left-hand side of the arete.
 S
15
Corner Direct Right-hand
6m. Climb into the recess of the nook and finish up the arete.
 
1 Stars
HS
16
Nook and Cranny
7m. Climb right of the previous route to the nook, traverse right to the flake of the cranny and finish up this.
 
1 Stars
S
17
Nook and Cranny Direct
7m. Start under the final flake-crack of the normal route, pull over the bulge and finish smartly up the cranny-crack.
 
1 Stars
Strong
HS
18
Highland Fling
7m. The blunt rib leads to a tiny groove - scary. The cranny is to be avoided to get the grade.
 
Fluttery
E1
19
Bawbee Crack
7m. Step off the block and climb the tricksome crack past the rattly chockstone of the 'Bawbee'.
 
1 Stars
HVD
20
Blaeberry Crack
7m. The left-slanting crack is followed to the junction.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
D
21
Blaeberry Buttress Direct
7m. Straight up the wall immediately right of the slanting crack.
 HS
22
Blaeberry Buttress
6m. Interesting and mild. Climb blocky ground then head diagonally left all the way to Blaeberry Crack using the sloping shelf...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
M
  • Latest Comments

    For SCUGDALE

    Main Mast Crack
    "Much to my disappointment (I'd even donned my Aldi thrutching jacket in preparat..." 23/Jul

    Pingers
    "Is this the only VS with a one finger pull-up?" 10/Dec

    The Shelf
    "A classic highball sprint." 25/Sep

    The Prow
    "'Lifting a Fridge'it couldn't be put any better!" 13/Sep

    Pets' Corner
    "Yeah, got to be worth 2 stars at least. Certainly one of the best routes I've do..." 12/Sep

    Pets' Corner
    "better than zeta wall" 12/Sep

    Prickly Rib
    "Up the left hand side of the rib, surely? Though might be HS up the right hand ..." 26/Jun

    The Bulkhead
    "More like VS 4c I reckon. The slightly overhanging finger crack at the top is da..." 19/Jun

    Bonzo
    "One of your reachy symbols would suit this climb well." 31/May

    Stewker
    "Another route that has been responsible for more than its fair share of broken l..." 21/Apr

    The Shelf
    "also watch you ankles - cost me a badly twisted ankle and a few months off!" 20/Apr

    Main Mast Crack
    "Well this gets Severe in the current guidebook, and whilst it is a bit of a thra..." 16/Apr

    Gamma
    "HD in the guidebook. Maybe VDiff at a pinch but never Severe!" 03/Apr

    The Mantelshelf
    "Not serious enough for a VS, but worth 4c, is V Diff 4c too silly a grade?" 27/Mar

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