The Pulpit to Barker's Buttress

Trad
Lots of sun!
8 mins
Uphill

On the left are the stacked block overhangs of the Pulpit, and to the right the large leaning tower of Drunken Buttress, with a slab on the left flank, and overhanging front and right-hand faces. Right again is Scugdale Buttress, the main section of which is round to the right. Further right is the excellent Barker's Buttress. Virtually all the climbs here are worth doing.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Pulpit
6m. Follow the easy crack then hand traverse the break below the overhang to a tough finish on the nose.
 
2 Stars
Strong
E1
2
Lazing on a Sunday Afternoon
6m. A short sharp finish up the left arete.
 
Crimpy
HVS
3
The Choir
6m. Balance up the rounded arete right of The Pulpit.
 
Rounded
VD
4
Lost Arete/Halleluja Chorus
6m. Climb the short scoop and the left-hand side of the arete.
 VS
5
Anvil Chorus
5m. The right side of the arete has a tough start through a bulge.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS
6
Forgotten Wall/Haec Dies
5m. Straight up the centre of the wall. Strenuous.
 
1 Stars
VS
7
Forgotten Arete/The Choir
5m. The right side of the wall leads to a tricky finish.
 HVS
8
Seamy Side
6m. The pleasant arete on the left-hand side of the block.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
D
9
Bottoms Up
7m. A bit of an eliminate up the centre of the slab. Holds on adjacent routes may have to be used, just don't tell anyone.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HS
10
Hangover
7m. A powerful layback start up the flake gains the very pleasant slabby groove above. A mini-classic.
 
2 Stars
Strong
VS
11
Tippling Wall Left-hand
7m. An old problem that gives a good variation up the left-hand side of the wall, linking decent holds by reaches.
 
1 Stars
HVS
12
Tippling Wall
7m. The valley face of the block gives a fingery climb with the holds gradually increasing in size up to the high break. A...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
13
Tippling Arete
7m. Head up the right edge of the wall using some snappy feeling ironstone edges to the final roofs and a sprint finish.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1
14
Humbug
6m. Climb the wall with extreme difficulty following a hairline crack and some shallow pockets - no using the adjacent block....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
E4
15
The Shelf
6m. Access the shelf on the wall with difficulty (watch your back and/or ankles) and make one more hard pull to easier ground.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
E2
16
Tippling Traverse
A pumpy traverse around the base of the buttress from Plumb Line to Hangover, or in the opposite direction.
3 user comments
 
Pumpy
Rounded
f6B+ 6b
17
Plumb Line
8m. The awkward tilted crack leads to the top of Drunken Buttress, finish up the left edge of the slab on the right.
 S
18
Pisa Buttress
8m. Climb straight up the fingery wall to the break, trend right to reach a sloping ledge awkwardly then finish direct.
 
Crimpy
Rounded
VS
19
Gravity Wall Direct
8m. A hybrid, but offering the best climbing on the face. Start up the previous climb and finish up the next one.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HS
20
Gravity Wall
8m. Start up the arete and climb to the break then trend left crossing the face to finish at its top left edge.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS
21
Galileo's Gully
8m. Bridge the outside of the chimney. Delving into the depths is a scruffy Diff.
 S
22
Tooth and Nail
8m. Climb the wall aiming for the thin hanging crack, then follow it on improving holds.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS
23
Supine
7m. From a block climb straight up the arete. Some of the holds feel a bit snappy.
 
Crimpy
VS
24
Scugdale Chimney Eliminate
8m. Worthwhile and high in the grade. The narrow rib left of the chimney with a powerful pull over the overhang (good but worn...
 
2 Stars
Strong
VS
25
Scugdale Chimney
8m. The banana-shaped chimney is a classic of its type.
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
VD
26
Scugdale Wall
8m. Climb the fingery flat wall right of the chimney until it bends over to meet you.
 
Crimpy
VS
27
Zeta Wall
8m. Pull into the odd zig-zag crack system in the wall and follow it on improving holds. Harder than it used to be due to...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
VS
28
Deviator
6m. A tricky little critter up the corner and shallow groove above. Finish direct or out to the left.
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS
29
Nameless Crack
5m. The widening crack just to the right doesn't see much attention, can't imagine why.
 
Graunchy
S
30
Cubs' Climb
5m. A short offering, exiting via a tiny groove.
1 user comment
 D
31
Kitten's Climb
6m. Climb the short crack then head up the wall, trending left.
 
1 Stars
VD
32
Pup's Climb
7m. Climb the left-trending flake-crack to its end then head up the face direct, to finish at a tiny notch.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
S
33
Bonzo
7m. Straight up the wall with a tricky move using a letter-box hold to get past the blankest section. Probably only VS if you...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
HVS
34
Pets' Corner
7m. Pleasant moves up the wall and tiny crack left of the arete. One of the best routes on the cliff.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
VS
35
The Arete
7m. Straight up the edge.
 
1 Stars
VS
36
Whippet Wall
7m. Climb the narrow side wall direct to finish up a short flake.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
VS
37
Barker's Chimney
6m. The short chimney in the main angle.
1 user comment
 D
38
Pluto
6m. The left side of the wall. A tough start past the bulge.
 
Crimpy
HS
39
Pluto Variant
6m. The right-hand side of the wall is rather artificial at the start - no bridging allowed.
 
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
HVS
40
Cat Walk
6m. Step off the large boulder on the right, then climb until a traverse left can be made to finish up either Barker's Chimney...
 VD
41
Hyena
5m. From the boulder, climb the short steep arete.
 S
42
Cerberus Crack
5m. The wide leaning crack is short but tricky.
 
Graunchy
HS
43
Peke's Perch
5m. The rib leads to a thin crack.
 S
44
Pingers Left-hand
6m. The left-hand side of the wall, finishing up a shallow groove. The arete should be avoided, unless you are struggling.
 VS
45
Pingers
6m. Climb directly up the centre of the wall using small pockets (a mono on a VS - wild!) and flakes. There are variations...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
VS
46
Pingers Right-hand
6m. The wall right of Pingers can be climbed avoiding holds on the parent route. It is tricky - both the climbing and the...
 
Technical
VS
47
Prickly Rib
7m. Climb the wall just left of the holly tree to finish up the left-hand side of the rib, or as close as the holly allows.
1 user comment
 S
  • Latest Comments

    For SCUGDALE

    Main Mast Crack
    "Much to my disappointment (I'd even donned my Aldi thrutching jacket in preparat..." 23/Jul

    Pingers
    "Is this the only VS with a one finger pull-up?" 10/Dec

    The Shelf
    "A classic highball sprint." 25/Sep

    The Prow
    "'Lifting a Fridge'it couldn't be put any better!" 13/Sep

    Pets' Corner
    "Yeah, got to be worth 2 stars at least. Certainly one of the best routes I've do..." 12/Sep

    Pets' Corner
    "better than zeta wall" 12/Sep

    Prickly Rib
    "Up the left hand side of the rib, surely? Though might be HS up the right hand ..." 26/Jun

    The Bulkhead
    "More like VS 4c I reckon. The slightly overhanging finger crack at the top is da..." 19/Jun

    Bonzo
    "One of your reachy symbols would suit this climb well." 31/May

    Stewker
    "Another route that has been responsible for more than its fair share of broken l..." 21/Apr

    The Shelf
    "also watch you ankles - cost me a badly twisted ankle and a few months off!" 20/Apr

    Main Mast Crack
    "Well this gets Severe in the current guidebook, and whilst it is a bit of a thra..." 16/Apr

    Gamma
    "HD in the guidebook. Maybe VDiff at a pinch but never Severe!" 03/Apr

    The Mantelshelf
    "Not serious enough for a VS, but worth 4c, is V Diff 4c too silly a grade?" 27/Mar

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