Bilsdale Buttress and Main Wall

Adjacent Areas
< The Sphinx  |  None >

Trad
Afternoon sun
25 mins
Uphill
Windy

Another pair of pleasant buttresses with a collection of worthwhile lower grade routes in a sunny sheltered situation. As might be expected they are popular.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Jackdaw Wall
7m. The smooth wall is climbed leftwards from a fingery layaway. The landing is poor, as is the gear.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E2
2
Jackdaw Ridge
10m. Follow the ridge (not much gear) until ledges lead leftwards.
 
1 Stars
HVD
3
Jackdaw Gully
10m. The left-slanting groove gives a good beginners' pitch.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
D
4
Christopher
9m. Climb the gully for a couple of metres then cross the right wall under the roof (small cams) making awkward moves out to...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HS
5
The Bulge Super Direct
8m. Start under the shallow groove and climb the wall on its right by technical and bold moves to slabbier ground. Sticking...
1 user comment
 
Technical
E2
6
The Bulge
9m. From a block in the left branch of Dusty Gully climb the steep wall to a horizontal finger-crack. Traverse this leftwards...
 
1 Stars
VS
7
The Slab Climb Variation
9m. From an embedded flake climb straight up the edge of the slab with a tricky mantel, finish up steeper rock.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
S
8
The Slab Climb
9m. A nice outing though protection is lacking. Climb the centre of the slab by at least one mantelshelf. Finish up a short...
2 user comments
 
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
HS
9
Central Route
9m. Start up The Slab Climb but branch right to a good foothold close to the next route. Continue by a decisive mantelshelf.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS
10
Wall and Ledge Top 50
10m. Start from a block and climb the prominent crack system to the top of the huge flake. Move up to a higher ledge and finish...
 
2 Stars
VD
11
Ridge Route
12m. Pull up to a ledge on the arete (phew - beefy) then continue to join the previous climb as it comes in from the left.
 
Strong
Rounded
S
12
Ridge Route Right-hand
12m. Pull onto the ledge as for Ridge Route then continue laybacking up the right side of the arete throughout. Artificial, but...
 
Rounded
HVS
13
Concave Wall
11m. From the ledge on Ridge Route, step right into the centre of the slab and climb direct by precarious climbing, with a...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS
14
Garfit Eliminate
18m. A wanderer, though with good moves and positions. Follow Concave Wall past its hard move, stride across the gully then...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1
15
Mousehole Gully
10m. The awkward rift can be tackled at a variety of depths - deeper is generally easier.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
D
16
Lemming Slab
10m. The centre of the front face. Climb directly past two ledges, with a tricky move to reach a horizontal crack. Step...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4
17
Ali Baba
10m. Climb the shallow groove precariously on sloping holds to reach the overhang and runners, including a fat thread. Climb...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E2
18
Sesame
10m. Climb Ali Baba boldly to the overhang then follow the slanting rift rightwards to finish up a wide vertical crack
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E2
19
Virgin Wall/Garfit Face
8m. Start from the gully on the right edge of the buttress, stretch left for a flat hold then swing boldly onto the front face....
 HVS
20
Lofty's Ease
6m. From a block, climb the right-hand side of the arete. Reachy.
 
Reachy
S
21
Tom Thumb
4m. The centre of the short wall at the back of the buttress.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
D
  • Latest Comments

    For WAINSTONES

    East Sphinx Direct
    "I go with Franco @ HS 5b - hard move(s) all low down." 23/Sep

    North Route
    "The gear is sparse - a bad thread. You may find yourself soloing." 31/May

    West Sphinx Direct
    "had to piano play my fingers into the eye, felt like hard 5c to me at 5'7"...." 02/Oct top50

    Little Bo-Peep
    "it is easierb to nip across quickly rather than burn out placing gear higher up...." 18/Sep

    Tiny's Dilemma Direct
    "the start is SUPER polished took me a while to get onto the first footholds :S..." 14/Nov

    Steeple Groove
    "HVD is way overgraded. Its Diff in the NE England guide and that seems about rig..." 31/May

    Sesame
    "Seeing as this is E2, you may as well head left and tackle Ali Baba as the crux ..." 21/Apr

    East Sphinx Direct
    "i recon HS 5b" 19/Mar

    East Sphinx Direct
    "Nope, MVS. ;-)" 09/Mar

    East Sphinx Direct
    "So you are trying to say its Hard Sever then? CC" 09/Mar

    East Sphinx Direct
    "Oh no, what i meant was that VS always seemed a bit tough for what it is! ;-) ..." 09/Mar

    East Sphinx Direct
    "If it was a tough VS - how can it be MVS? Chris" 05/Mar

    East Sphinx Direct
    "Nice to see my favourite route(solo) is a HVS....... VS was always abit tough IM..." 05/Mar

    Ling Arete
    "good climb, only protectable with a tri-cam and a small brass nut, with out thes..." 03/Feb

    The Slab Climb
    "This must be one of the most off-putting Severes Ever?! Technical, Rounded and S..." 22/Dec

    Search for comments