Central Buttress

Trad
Afternoon sun
40 mins
Uphill
Windy

The chunk of rock in the centre of the cliff has some outstanding climbs, although the left-hand side wall can be a bit dirty. Under its right-hand side the landing is especially soft. The routes are generally steep and strenuous, plus the majority have testing exits onto the bald top of the buttress.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Dolcis Arete
7m. The left arete to a hard finish.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E4
2
Rain Drops
8m. The shallow groove right of the arete, to a leftwards exit.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2
3
Shadow Players
9m. The wall on small holds to a gripping and unprotected exit.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E4
4
Pot-Hole Wall
10m. Climb the flake to a ledge then move left and use the pothole to reach another harrowing exit.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Rounded
E5
5
Shoe Horn
12m. Starting from the right, climb the shallow scoop to a hole. Continue up and right to finish.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS
6
Tossin' a Wobbler
12m. Pull left out of Callerhues Crack and climb to and through the roof, then wobble up the fingery wall to a hasty exit.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E3
7
Callerhues Crack
12m. The classic HVS of the crag, and on this one the grade has always been about right. Follow the flakes rightwards...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
8
Twin Hats
12m. The cracked arete leads to the ledge, head rightwards to the hanging crack which finishes too far short of the top.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E3
9
Ned Kelly
12m. Head up the hanging groove then pull rightwards into the crack. Climb this until it fizzles out, then the problems begin -...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3
10
Second Born
12m. The leaning crack through the biggest of the bulges is about as impressive as they come, sustained and powerful, though at...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E6
11
Callerhues Chimney
12m. The classic rift on the right is often dirty.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS
12
Rice Krispies
12m. The left side of the wall, right of the chimney, starting up the thin crack which is less helpful than the wall to its...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4
13
Toshiba Receiver
10m. Hard climbing up the thin features on the right-hand side of the face.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4