Moving Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Pink Wall  |  The Lifts >

Trad
Early morning sun
20 mins
Up and Down

This fine wall stands proudly above the railway and was one of the first walls in the Dale to be developed mainly because it has a number of good groove and crack-lines.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
I Had a Black Shirt
The right-hand side of the arete. Tricky to flash.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
2
Protest and Survive
A good wall climb with reasonable gear on the crux but an extremely unhelpful flake above can give a few worrying moments....
 
1 Stars
E4
3
Whistling Crack
The wide crack is thoroughly traditional.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS
4
Gander Meat
A tendon-tearing exercise up the clean, white wall. Gear consists of a peg and some hard-to-place wires. Finishing leftwards at...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6
5
Dope
Thin climbing with a desperate move above the third bolt.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b+
6
Autonomon
Climb easy rock leftwards to a wall which leads to a ledge. Finish up the vegetated groove above. Abseil off.Spirit of the...
 
1 Stars
E1
7
Automoton
Thin fingery climbing leads to a lower-off.
 7a
8
Spirit of the Age
The vague groove line left of Autonomon.
 E5 6a
9
Monoton
Climb the groove to gain the break. Finish up the corner above and abseil off. Originally it finished up the groove of...
 VS
10
Vibrator
The thin crack and steep slab lead to a grassy ledge. Step right and tackle the final awkward crack. Abseil from a tree.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2
11
Witch in Stitch
Progress above the second bolt is made by a desperate static move or an ungradeable jump.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
12
Thin Lizzy
A tricky lower crack leads to the break (threads). Then make a hard move to get established over the roof. There may be a bolt...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1
13
Swinging Wall
A counter-diagonal to Thin Lizzy but not quite as good. Climb the crack to a thread in the break then traverse left to an...
1 user comment
 VS
14
A Man Called Horse
Extremely technical moves up the wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
15
Dynamic
The shallow groove to the right of the smooth wall is balancy and not well protected. Finish up a flake and on into the trees.
 
Technical
E1
16
Soft Shoe
Twin cracks to a ledge. Traverse right and finish up a wide crack behind a tree.
 VS 4c
17
Orchrist
The groove just left of the larger groove of Osculation.
2 user comments
 VS
18
Shapeshifter
The wall between the cracks with a curving overlap. Finish as for the other routes past the tree.
 HVS 5a
19
Osculation
The large open groove gives a fine pitch. Take care with a dangerous loose block which may still lurk halfway up the route.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
HVS
20
Wise Up! Sucker ....
A short sport route with a good rock-over move.
 
Technical
6c+
21
Your Rotten Thoughts
Two hard moves on the black wall.
 
Technical
7a+
22
Transit Grove
From the bottom of Escort crack climb up left to gain a groove. Follow this to a ledge and climb the wide crack behind the...
 VS 4c
23
Priming the Pump
The thin curving crack is sustained and seldom climbed.
 E4
24
Escort Crack
The direct crack left of Thin Lizzy to the finish of Swinging Wall.
 VS 4c
25
Oh No! It's the Wall to Wall Birthday Party
The thin crack and bulge has some loose holds.
 
Technical
Strong
Loose
7a+
26
Fresh Jive
Short and hard. No lower-off.
 
Technical
7c
27
Shaking Crack
The diagonal crack gives the best route on this section of wall. A struggle from the very first move but well protected.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E2
28
Big Boned Backside Melon
Short-lived technical interest. Lower off the last bolt.
 
Technical
7b+
29
Dangleberry
An old-style piece of route finding which skirts around the main roofs. Climb a thin groove to a niche below the roof. At the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
30
Thor's Hammer
A big struggle through the roofs and onto the hanging flake above. Start up Dangleberry. Can also be started direct.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
E1
31
Socialism
An eliminate, cutting through the two main roof challenges. Start from the embedded block and climb the blank slab to the...
 
1 Stars
E3
32
A Farewell to Arms
The left-hand crack line to the right of the groove of Dynamic.
 E3 6a
33
Colon
Start up Thin Thin Groove to the break then traverse left until below a fine groove. Follow this to the top.
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1
34
Nettle Whine
The right-hand crack line to the right of the groove of Dynamic.
 E3 6a
35
Thin Thin Groove
The right-hand side of the roofs has a thin thin hanging groove. Gain this and follow it to the top.
 
1 Stars
VS
36
Quake
A delightful set of short grooves. Awkward in the middle.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1
37
The Price of Fame
Climb flakes then cross Vibration to a lower-off up right.
 
Technical
E4
38
Still Wall
A shallow groove 5m left of the prominant corner of Orchrist.
 VS 4b
39
Vibration
Follow the scoops up left past a thread and some better gear to finish up Quake. The scene of a few big falls.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1
40
Family Fortunes
A direct above the thread on Vibration. Leaving the ramp is the crux; above that it relents, but not by too much.
 
Technical
7a+
41
Pushed to the Hilti
Start up Vibration but climb direct past 2 old bolts. Wires will be needed to get to the first bolt.
 
Technical
6c
42
Shock the Monkey
The rising diagonal cracks to the top of Pushed to the Hilti.
 E4
43
Yuk
The arete right of Osculation has a steep start which is best approached from its right-hand side.
 E4 6b
44
Gibbon Take
A short filler-in squeezed into the right-hand end of the buttress. 3 bolts to a lower-off
 6c
45
Suicides Reprieve/McKenzie Frenzy
A combination of two routes which cross Dangleberry. Climb 2 thin cracks to the break, stpe right and finish up a groove.
 E4 6a
46
Calvi Corner
The chossy, vegetated corner.
 S
47
Behaviour of Fish
Climb a flake left of the ivy to the break. Make desperate thin moves back up right to an old bolt belay.
 E4 6b
48
Forgotten Dream
The steep thin crack between the two patches of ivy to a bolt belay.
 E5 6b
49
The Roaring Forties
A horrible wandering line following cracks and ivy up the wall left of Quake.
 E3 5c