Long Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Two Tier - Vista Wall  |  Runyon's Corner >

Sport
Early morning sun
20 mins
Up and Down
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

Long Wall provides four distinct sections. On the left is an area which takes a lot of seepage which can make the routes dirty long into the summer. Once cleaned up they provide some good sport with High Society and Kiss Me Hardy being two of the classic ticks of the Dale. The central section bulges impressively above an easier vertical wall. The routes tend to be short and powerful. Further right is the cut-away which is often dirty but does have a few items of interest. Right again the wall rears up in a continuous section of steep rock which gives fine technical and sustained routes and even that rare thing - hard limestone slab climbing.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Super Orchic
Short and technical moves past three bolts. 5m long.
 
Technical
7b
2
Banana Republic
The left-hand corner of the recess.
 E2 5c
3
Columnus
A powerful route through bulges on the left of the cut-away. The start is a bit obscured by a large tree.
 
Strong
7b+
4
The Orange Order
Right of the corner with a finish over the roof.Banana Republic, E2 5c - The left-hand corner of the recess.
 
Technical
6c
5
Orange Free State
Steep jug pulling through the centre of the cut-away. The final move proves to be a bit of a stopper. Often dirty.
 6b+
6
Berried
A hard start and a blind finish over the widest part of the roof which requires a bit of a reach. Often dirty. Pass a small...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6c
7
Black Rights
A technical wall leading to a rest at the break. The bulge above is awkward. The cleanest of the bunch.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
8
High Society
The first and still one of the best additions to Long Wall. Easier than it looks, but no pushover, with a final teasing move....
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
9
Kiss Me Hardy
An excellent route, the best of its grade on the wall. Climb the bulge right of High Society, either from the left or direct...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a+
10
Kiss My Arcy
A good companion to Kiss Me Hardy with similar climbing - a hard bulge then sustained moves above.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
11
Mystical Attainment
A straightened out old trad route with a new direct finish. The bulge has a very reachy crux.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
12
Mouldwarp Wall
Direct through the steepest section of bulges on very thin holds requiring two long reaches (or a desperate alternative...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
13
Brothers in Arms
The lower part is beefy climbing on undercuts but getting into the top groove is the crux.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
14
Rouge Total
Hard moves through the bulge eject you onto the steep upper wall. The easiest line through these bulges. There is an old...
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b
15
Total Rock
The next line through the right side of the bulges.
 
1 Stars
7c
16
Jungle Rock
A veritable banquet for the biceps, this fine route demands a powerful approach. A spike hold marks the way. It lost some...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
17
Some Things Change
A powerful bulge low down with undercuts and side-pulls, and a few tricky moves above. One final hard pull. Tricky second clip.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
18
Rolling Stone
The wall between Balancing Act and the corner.
 E4 6b
19
Fatal Attraction
The easiest line hereabouts kicks off straight away with strenuous moves to gain the flake-line. Sporty moves up this lead to...
 
2 Stars
7a
20
Lucky Finger
The bulging arete is sustained, technical and seldom climbed. Tricky to onsight and it can be dusty.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
21
The Balancing Act
A hard route with contrasting technical sections. Finish over the top roof to a lower-off.Rolling Stone, E4 6b - The wall...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
22
Trick Show
The centre of the recess. The start gives some very hard moves but there is a good breather before the final roof.
 
Technical
Strong
7b+
23
Casamance
Steep moves through bulges lead to the reachy finishing roof. This is easier if you don't use the obvious holds.
 7a+
24
Macumba
An inferior and easier right-hand start to Casamance.
 7a+
25
Freeway
The big corner is seldom climbed. Originally given HVS but it is certainly going to be harder than that in the usual grotty...
 
Loose
E1
26
Atlantic Realm
Start below the big square roof. Good hard climbing and more sustained than it used to be when there was a huge hanging block...
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
27
Gob on the Mountain
A short, sharp route right of the big roof, unfortunately it is rather unbalanced. Reach the first break then make a desperate...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
28
Titanic
Climb the wall to gain a layback crack. move right onto the leaning weall and crank up this.
 
2 Stars
7b+
29
Meterol
Quality climbing up the wall just to the right. Climb the wall to the break and stand in it. Step right then make hard pulls to...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b+
30
Breathless
A wandering line with some fine climbing. Sadly the difficulty of the second clip makes it a serious undertaking and its bolted...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6
31
Cathedral Taste
Excellent, at last something for the aficionados of balance (well after the start). Crimp through the bulge to gain the (steep)...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b+
32
À Bout de Souffle
Another very technical and fine wall climb. Climb up to a stump, move up to undercuts - hard for the short - then make a...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
7c
33
Multiplex
A neglected route with good climbing. Move up to the overlap then stretch left to a jug (bolt). Make a wild drop down to the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E4
34
Smutt
The direct start past a rotten peg.
 E5 6c
35
Child Lock
A reachy direct finish to Multiplex with a hard clip.
 
1 Stars
7a+
36
Hot Panties
Technical moves which keep on coming to a tricky finish.
 
1 Stars
7a
37
Steaming Strides
Desperate moves up left from the 2nd bolt on Hot Panties.
 
Technical
7a+
38
Skid Marks
16m. A poor route up a lone buttress 20m right of the end of Long Wall. The line is marked by 2 bolts and 2 pegs. Lower-off...
1 user comment
 
Technical
Pumpy
6b+
39
Nookie Bear
Direct to the lower-off on Hot Panties via three hard moves.
 
Technical
7a+
40
Child's Play
The last climb on the wall requires a runner or two, and a peg to protect it. Finish at the lower off of Hot Panties.
 
1 Stars
E4