Hovedveggen

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Morning sun
5 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The main central section of the cliff is steep with a series of short intense routes all of which offer great climbing but at a high standard.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Stinker's Corner
The wall 3m right of the black recess is escapable towards the end. Straight up at the last bolt earns the tick. Despite...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
7a+
2
Hoppalong Knut
Follow Full belastning for four bolts then go diagonally into Stinker's Corner. It needs to be done direct past the last bolt...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
7a+
3
Full belastning
(Full Power) Steep and juggy an superb. Climb right through the roofs to the groove. The route seeps but the crucial holds stay...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
4
Attaca con tufa
A granite tufa - sort of. The roof above the lower-off used by the last two routes is one of the best and hardest here.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
5
Ellinor's vise
(Ellinor's Song) Short and sharp. Start as for Commando but trend left and bail out at the earliest opportunity.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a+
6
Øl som medisin
This long-term project has now been completed.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8b
7
Commando Top 50
Short and tough right from go. Start as Joker nord but then trend left to a lower-off under the steeper rock.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
8
Joker nord
A mega-offering. Trend right, eventually doing battle with the hanging shark-fin feature. Continue up the overhanging groove.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a
9
Aetat
(Job Centre) Head right crossing the thin diagonal white strip of rock that cuts across the crag. The initial groove is often...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a
10
Uvørn sjænking
(Careless Drinking) Trend left following the rib until it is possible to get right past the roof. The tricky start needs an...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
11
Heimlich maneuver
Start as for Uvørn sjænking but take a more direct line to and through the big bulge. Give yourself a hug!
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
12
Reidar Sjuse
A popular line which crosses the centre of the bulge.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
7b+
13
Gullfaks Top 50
(A North Sea sector) One of the best here, taking the easiest line up the centre of the wall. Follow the rib then head to...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a
14
Gullpils
(Golden Beer - a Norwegian beer) The extension rightwards from just below the lower-off on Gullfaks is a big one. Long...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
15
Polakken
(A Polish guy) A short tough offering goes left through the biggest bulge. Awkward and harder than it looks.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
16
Alopølsa Top 50
The same start but continue direct using the pølsa (sausage) and some superb pockets higher up.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b
17
Alopils
A harder extension to the last climb gives a massive pitch.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
18
Alkotest
(Breathalyser) A short groove leads to a roof which is passed with difficulty and a good jug. There are at least five ways of...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
7a
19
Ildvann
(Fire Water) Starting up an arete is this short pitch with some poor holds and a crux pull on a crimp.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
20
Sankthansormen Top 50
(The Glowworm) The extension makes Ildvann into a three-star outing. Sustained and tricky moves to a pumpy finale.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
21
Eggulf
The first route put up a on the cliff is decent taster. Steep moves lead to trickier ones to gain a ramp. Balance left to a...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a
22
Beginski Spesia
Just right of Eggulf climb the wall to where tricky moves on unhelpful holds access the base of the ramp.
 
Technical
Rounded
6a+
23
Forselv Rederi
The broken corner leads to a stiff pull to access the lower-off. The crux move can be avoided by keeping left - poor.
 6a
24
Prinsessens Sosta
From the top of the previous route make hard moves to a ledge. Continue up the very steep grooves above final tricky moves to...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
25
Is this all Sophie?
An innocuous looking pitch lacking decent holds leads to a nasty exit past a collapsing grass ledge.
 
Technical
Rounded
6b
26
Got you fooled here
The extension to the previous climb gives more bizarre precariousness.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
6b
  • Latest Comments

    For EGGUM

    Lille vakre Anna
    "One of the easiest routes in the cave. Stays dry. Two hard moves on the top." 10/Dec

    Hoppalong Knut
    "Short and lovely. Quiet easy for the grade." 08/Jul

    Sankthansormen
    "Superb and varied climbing on a route that is slightly spoiled by the mid-way le..." 22/Jul top50

    Stinker's Corner
    "In my opinion this route is pretty hard for the grade. But a very good route!" 21/Jul

    Vestfjordseilasen
    "This route deserves 8. A bit wandery but really good anyway..." 19/Jul

    Ellinor's vise
    "It was originally meant to be continued, there is an bolted extension continuing..." 15/Jul

    Alopils
    "The anchor on this route is quite a bit higher than shown in the guidebook... Al..." 06/Jul

    Gullfaks
    "Classy, and pumpy!" 13/Mar top50

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