Helvetestinden

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Afternoon sun
90 mins
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(The Hell Peak) This pointed peak north of Bunesfjorden has a huge west-facing slabby wall that looks over the Bunestranda and out into the Norwegian Sea, and heaps more rock on the Kjerkfjord side too.
The attractive pillar on the right-hand side of the wall is known as the French Pillar after the first route up it. Two further routes were put up in 2005 and they doubtless cover some of the same ground as the original French Pillar route. The climbing is generally on good rock following shallow crack systems.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Left Approximation
About 600m. 18 pitches up the left-hand edge of the face, bounded by grass slopes to the left. Start right of these and cross...
2 user comments
 6-
2
Terra i mar
630m. Climbed in a single 11 hour push with just a rack of cams and wires. The route starts with 120m of easy (N3/4) climbing...
 
3 Stars
7- A0
3
Thirst in the Clouds
(a.k.a. Helvetesveggen/Hell's Wall) This 16 pitch route tackles the centre of the face via a soaring series of left-facing...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
6+ A3
4
Noensfoten
570m. A line which starts up the rock to the left of Ticket to Greenland and then traverses right to join it, before heading...
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
7-
5
Ticket to Greenland
A major undertaking up the grooves and crack to the left of The French Pillar, sustained at N6-/N6 with lots of quality...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6 A0
6
The Next Best Thing
The slightly easier climb of the pair on the actual French Pillar is seven pitches long and on great rock. It starts on the...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6+
7
Norwegian Sheep Ranch
The more difficult of the two climbs on the pillar, with pitches 1, 3 and 4 being close to 60m long and N7 in grade. The other...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7
8
Highway to Hell
The first route on the side-wall of the pillar described by the first ascent team as an 'enjoyable' climb.1) N4+, 40m....
 
2 Stars
6-
9
Tradicionarius
Start at right of the gully and climb up 60m (N4). Then go left, and follow the gully for 150m (easy). Climb an embedded block...
 
2 Stars
7-
10
Första approximationen
130m. (First approximation) To the right of the big gully right of the French Pillar is an attractive overhanging yellow wall...
 
1 Stars
7+
  • Latest Comments

    For THE WEST

    The Next Best Thing
    "On the upper part (above the ledge), the grades are not correct : it's more like..." 25/Aug

    Borr i Bekkmørtna
    "An Excelent route worth to climb! From pitch 3 goes straight up, following crack..." 18/Jul

    Permit to Åsgård
    "Rob Lamey roblamey@hotmail.co.uk Top quality route, a must adventure up the ..." 27/Jul

    Sea Breeze
    "I just want to add some usefull information. There is a tunnel under the cliff. ..." 15/Jul

    Recht Rinne
    "This route - or a variation of it - was climbed by Svein Smelvær and Bjørn Hanch" 31/Jul

    Norwegian Sheep Ranch
    "Pitch 1 is a somewhat runout (7- ish) and longer than 60 m. We had to simul-clim..." 29/Jul

    Sørvest pillaren
    "Did this in early August 08 - this is now three months later so the details are ..." 11/Nov

    Sea Breeze
    "I agree with the comments above. The two final pitches were bold and quite hard..." 13/Oct

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