South Face

Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
5 mins
Uphill

A good collection of climbs on the face overlooking the causeway across the end of Djupfjord. It has a quick approach, gets plenty of sun and is always popular. It is worth checking from the road to see how busy the crag is to save walking up if your intended route is occupied.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Kangshungrisset
(The Kangshung Crack) The vertical cracks just left of the big black chimney. Steep sport, especially the top finger-crack....
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6+
2
Sorte Orm
(Black Adder) The big forbidding groove that bounds the left side of the main section of the face - atmospheric. Bring at least...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
6
3
Applecake Arete Top 50
Start at the foot of the arete under the tree-filled corner.1) N4+, 40m. Climb onto the arete proper and follow it...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
5+
4
Lys og skygge Top 50
(Light and Shade) A lovely climb, start at the foot of a right-trending grassy ramp.1) N5+, 25m. Climb the ramp, then the...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
5+
5
Soria Moria Top 50
(A castle in a Norwegian fairy-tale) A tough climb up the big groove. Once a hard aid route and now a harder free one.1)...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
7+
6
Castle Dracula
A great free line based on the aid route Nye tider. Start up the shallow corner with some aid bolts, right of Soria Moria....
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
8-
7
Nye tider
(New Times) A serious and neglected aid route up the big slab under Soria Moria. Birdbeaks, copperheads and knife-blades will...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
A3
8
Kongens hjørne
(The King's Arete) A serious lead, with ground-fall potential. Start at the top of the grassy ramp. Climb slightly left, then...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
6
9
Slemgutt risset
(Bad Boy's Crack) The crack in the small outcrop above the cliff.
 
Crimpy
5+
10
Dream of White Whales
The thin dyke on the diagonal buttress below and right of the rest of the cliff is balancy. Gain and follow the dyke up and...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6-
11
Djupfjord sprickan
(Djupfjord Crack) A smart vertical crack in a clean sheet of rock round and right of Lys og skygge visible from the road. The...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
7-
12
Jørn Roger
An aid route starting from loose blocks. Follow a groove to a stance (A1, 10m) then continue up the thin cracks in the face...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
A2
  • Latest Comments

    For PIANOKRAKKEN AREA

    Frøken Sverige
    "Added a route up the blunt rib to the left of Frøken Sverige: "Ångermanland" 23/Jun

    Djupfjord sprickan
    "1 Star in the guidebook and the information that it is an off width, means just ..." 14/Jul

    Pizzatyven
    "Pitch grades: (1) VS 4c, (2) VS 4c, (3) E1 5c, (4) HVS 5a, (5) HS 4b (overall E1..." 31/Jul top50

    Lys og skygge
    "I felt the first pitch more delicate. Take care in the crux, not every hold is v..." 29/May top50

    Applecake Arete
    "Nice Climb" 27/Sep top50

    Pianohandler Lunds rute
    "Great route, well worthy of it's top 50 status. Varied climbing. Top of pitch 3 ..." 26/Jul top50

    Ant Line
    "You can also continue the climbing along obvious crack lines to the summit of th..." 10/Jul

    Pizzatyven
    "P3 seems like 6, but perhaps harder for short climbers. P4 is more like 5. The r..." 17/Jul top50

    Pizzatyven
    "Did it a few days ago following the amended instructions in the update. Pitch 3 ..." 28/Jun top50

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