Presten Routes

Adjacent Areas
< Lille Presten  |  Stålormsrisset >

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There is a great collection of routes on the face and almost all are well worth doing. Vestpillaren (The West Pillar), the original route on the face, ascends a system of cracks and corners up the right-hand side of the nose. The Direct version of this is undoubtedly Lofoten's best known and finest rock climb, offering twelve pitches of varied and well-protected climbing up a devious but logical line, on superb rock throughout. The two main features of the face are the huge roof, which is tackled by Reisen and The Codfather, and the big ledge running across the face above the roof. This ledge is known as Storhylla and provides a useful connection point between many of the routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Himmel og Helvete
(Heaven and Hell) A climb of contrast; the first six pitches (Heaven) are great, up perfect cracks in white granite; the top...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
7
2
To krigere
(Two Warriors) This difficult climb was the second full-length route up Presten and was first done in the depths of winter! It...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
7 A3
3
Korstoget Top 50
(The Crusade) A fine and bold route up cracks and grooves just left of the nose of the cliff. The final section follows the...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
Loose
7
4
Ypperstepresten
(The High Priest) An indifferent start leads to superb climbing on the black dyke that splits the sheets of white granite below...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
6
5
Biskopen
(The Bishop) An interesting line at an amenable grade with an exciting pendulum high on the cliff. It is devious and bold in...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
6- A0
6
Søndagskole turen
(Sunday School Outing) A route to nowhere, though with some good and bold climbing.1) N5, 45m. Climb easy slabs to the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
7
7
The Codfather
An excellent intricate route with some exciting moments. Carry a full rack including plenty of micro wires. Start in the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
7
8
Reisen
(The Journey) A tremendous climb on perfect rock up Presten's imposing central section. The route offers technical climbing on...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
7+
9
Klokkeren
(The Bell Ringer) A decent set of pitches on the upper central portion of Presten, using a parallel crack/groove system just to...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Loose
7-
10
Vestpillaren Variation Start
A left-hand start to Vestpillaren gives a decent long pitch with good crack-climbing and laybacking to join Vestpillaren Direct...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
6-
11
Vestpillaren Direct Top 50
(The West Pillar Direct) Although long called Vestpillaren this popular and brilliant climb only includes four pitches of the...
14 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6
12
Thunder in Paradise
A hard route up the slim grooves in the big blunt arete to the left of the lower section of Vestpillaren Direct. 1) N5+,...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
8-
13
Variasjon til en variasjon
(Variation on a Variation) A good variation up the left-slanting crack system just to the left Vestpillaren Direct pitch 3....
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6+
14
Vestpillaren Top 50
This was the original line on the face - an audacious undertaking envisioned and completed by Arild Meyer and Bynjar Tollefsen...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7
15
Himmelen kan vente
(Heaven Can Wait) This brilliant route has some great climbing and a sensational finish high on the buttress. A large cam or...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6+
16
The Altar Boys
A clean aid route following thin cracks (plenty of small stuff) up the smooth shield right of the 2nd pitch of Himmelen kan...
 A3
17
Holy Diver
A route up the huge left wall of the gully that delineates the right-hand side of Presten. Start off the first good ledge above...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
7+
  • Latest Comments

    For PRESTEN

    Ypperstepresten
    "It's not Top50, its Top10. One of the greatest climbs I could imagine. The cru..." 14/Jul

    Vestpillaren Direct
    "Just repeated this route (last did it 15 years ago) and found pitch 3 (on the di..." 06/Aug top50

    Himmelen kan vente
    "Excellent, but even in the update is not everything correct. 1) dont follow the..." 23/Jul

    Vestpillaren Direct
    "Perfection - wonderful, sustained climbing all the way with only a few short tri..." 13/Jul top50

    Korstoget
    "On the crux pitch, after the 3rd bolt, go "right and up" rather than &..." 26/Jun top50

    Vestpillaren Direct
    "Maybe good to know that the hard sections are always short and well protected. O..." 29/May top50

    Vestpillaren
    "We did the Original start the next day after climbing Vestpilaren normal start (..." 06/Aug top50

    Vestpillaren Direct
    "Diagree with Richard. Pitches 4,5,6,and 10 are actually quite good especially pi..." 26/Jul top50

    Vestpillaren Direct
    "A great route, some beautiful sustained pitches but there are also a number grot..." 25/Jul top50

    Korstoget
    "Very nice up to Storhylla, pitch 5 and 6 are OK, after that the quality drops dr..." 04/Aug top50

    Korstoget
    "An excellent link-up (with a 7- crux) is the first 4 pitches of Korståget (to St" 29/Jul top50

    Korstoget
    "The first four pitches are awesome, and make a great outing, and are well protec..." 17/Jul top50

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