Gandalf Main

Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
5 mins
Level
Sheltered

The fine broad buttress is home to many excellent routes. On the far left are a few neglected bold routes, but the main section has a compelling set of groove climbs and to the right are some striking cracks. Almost all of these give classic climbs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Edderkoppen
(The Spider) Start below the left-hand end of the big slanting overhang in the middle of the wall.1) N6-, 25m. Trend...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
7-
2
Tynne ting
(Thin Things) Another bold pitch up the slabby rock below and right of the lower abseil point. The name is a pointer to the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
6
3
Nøttolfs fristelse
(Nøttolf's Temptation) A line based on the black water streak just to the left of the diagonal overlaps.1) N6+, 25m. Climb
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
6+
4
Nøtteliten
A decent rightwards extension to Nøttolfs fristelse . 1) N6+, 25m. As for Nøttolfs fristelse, to a belay on a big ledge.
 
1 Stars
6+
5
Førstereisgutten
(The Boy's First Journey At Sea) The thin crack and right-hand edge of the diagonal overhangs. The hard climbing is above the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7
6
Gamle rev Top 50
(Old Fox) The attractive twinned groove system in the centre of the face gives sustained and well-protected jamming and...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6
7
Tromsø ekspressen Top 50
(The Tromsø Express) A fine route up the most prominent of the parallel grooves in the centre of the cliff. Three well-protected
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6
8
Lost Gandalf
This variation start to one of the adjacent routes is rather grassy, though it does see quite a few ascents and queues are...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
5-
9
Gollum Top 50
An excellent and well-protected crack climb up the parallel crack system a few metres to the left of Gandalf. Thought by some...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5
10
Smeagul
Plugs the gap between Gollum and Lost Gandalf with some decent climbing.1) N5+, 40m. Follow cracks to the belay on Gollum,...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
5+
11
Gandalf's kamin
(Gandalf's Chimney) A more strenuous and awkward finish to Gandalf and easily combined with Lost Gandalf.1) N5, 40m. As...
5 user comments
 
Graunchy
5
12
Gandalf Top 50
A Lofoten classic up the highest part of the cliff with three good pitches - interesting, varied and well protected. Start up...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5
13
Guns 'n' Roses Top 50
A nice varied route - steep, satisfying, well protected and on excellent rock. The route sees plenty of action. There has been...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6-
14
Krympefesten
(The Shrinking Party or 'Wetting the Baby's Head' - quite what is being shrunk is open to interpretation!) This...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6+
15
Rolling Stone
Plugs the gap to the right of Gun 'n' Roses. There is some loose rock and vegetation hence the reason it hasn't been described...
 
1 Stars
6
16
Vår pump
(Spring Pump) The cracks and ramps in some steep rock lead a finish up the prominent beckoning hanging crack far above. Bring...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
7-
17
Three Lions on the Shirt
A steep direct start to Vår pump combined with an easier, though still worthwhile, finish. 1) N7-, 40m. Climb to, and up, a
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
7-
18
The Caveman
A direct and arduous outing with some great and steep climbing after the worrying start.1) N7, 35m. Start in the back of...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
8-
19
Rasmus ekspressen Top 50
(The Rasmus Express) In its day Lofoten's hardest free climb offering high quality technical climbing. Begin on the far...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8-
20
Souhaila Andrawes
A mixed route that tackles the imposing leaning wall above the start of Rasmus ekspressen. A full aid rack is required...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
A3
21
Blondie
A short clean slab on the upper wall is split by a thin crack. There is a question about the exact whereabouts of this.
2 user comments
 
Technical
Crimpy
6-
22
Grus i øgat
(Dirt in Your Eye) The short thrutchy crack passing the left-hand side of the huge jammed block.
2 user comments
 
Graunchy
6
  • Latest Comments

    For GANDALF

    Silmarillion
    "Seems like the pegs have been replaced by one bolt. Pitch 3 felt like the crux. ..." 23/Aug

    Lost Gandalf
    "Totally agree with Chris. Very nice rock and never crowded." 08/Jul

    Gandalf
    "The first pitch is quite polished. We went wrong on pitch 2, and ended up on Gun..." 08/Dec top50

    Gamle rev
    "Lofoten's finest E0? Great juggy climbing - lots of fun." 13/Jul top50

    Guns 'n' Roses
    "Dont go to far right in the first pitch, then its really good." 29/May top50

    Gamle rev
    "Peak HVS & Pembroke E1?" 28/Jun top50

    Silmarillion
    "The pegs on pitch 3 are all gone." 29/Jul

    Gandalf's kamin
    "Just wondering if the rout is 5+, or just a 5 ?" 15/Jun

    Gandalf
    "The original finish (straight up from the Eagle's Nest) is quite fun - probably ..." 25/May top50

    Gollum
    "Thought 5 was fair enough for the first pitch. Gets a lot less traffic then Gan..." 06/Jul top50

    Gandalf's kamin
    "It is more of a groove than a chimney and getting into it is a bit of a pig. Eas..." 11/Jun

    Hot Fisk, Jumping Weasel
    "FA dave barrens + robin thomas" 08/May

    Live Aid
    "There has been a some confusion over this, the current consensus appears to be t..." 28/Mar

    Live Aid
    "We saw a British team free climbing on it in 2002. I think they said they did it..." 28/Mar

    Guns 'n' Roses
    "I thought it 'only' two stars, though Thorbjørn as absolutely adamant it is wort" 19/Mar top50

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