Poema de Roca

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Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Kervala
35m. The blank streaked wall left of cave.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8b
2
Truco final
The blank streaked wall left of the cave.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
3
Maquina cualquiera (P1)
Start at the edge of the cave. This is the first pitch of six - see p.85.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b
4
El complot
Super-steep climbing along the left edge of the cave.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
5
La villa strangiato
Slots and pockets up the left wall of the cave.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b
6
Eye of the Storm Top 50
Start up a wide crack at the back of the cave. Very disorientating climbing on big holds. Lower-off in the middle of the roof.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
7
Thunder Struck
Butch climbing to the Eye of the storm lower-off in the middle of the roof.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
8
Thunder Struck Extension
Continue across the lip to the upper wall.
 
Strong
Pumpy
8b
9
Swimming Through a Shark Attack Top 50
Steep blobs to the Eye of the Storm lower-off in the middle of the roof. Brilliant. Linking this into the Thunder Struck...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
10
Mizery
Very steep climbing that finishes up Thunder struck extension.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
11
La cuca
A good long route left of Poema de Roca.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a
12
Poema de roca (P1) Top 50
A fun and pumpy romp up steep tufas and cracks to a sapping finish. The first of six pitches - p.85.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a
13
Viejos rockeros
Climb direct above the first half of Poema de Roca (P1).
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
8a+
14
Poema de roca (P2)
Pitch two of six pitches - p.§§§.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
15
Licantropia de plenilunio
The right-hand line above Poema de roca (P1).
 
Strong
7c
16
Rima libra
A hard direct on Poema de roca. A left-hand loop gives a good 7b. Linking to Viejos rockeros gives Rima rockeros, 8b.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
17
Viejo traidor Top 50
A tremendous sustained pitch with a tricky finish.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
18
Sarracenos
An extension to Viejo traidor.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
19
Morritos jaeger
A good tough pitch.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
20
XXL
The extension pitch above Morritos jaeger.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
21
Via de Rudolf
The left-hand extension above Viejo amigo.
 
3 Stars
8a
22
Los senores de asfis
The right-hand pitch above Viejo amigo.
 
3 Stars
7c+
23
Viejo amigo
A flowstone start up a groove leads to a pressing crux.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
7a
24
Newie
Immediately right of the Viejo amigo groove and left of the flowstone edge of Garcia aguas. Finish direct - the older version...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
25
García aguas
Good climbing up the flowstone right of the shallow cave - staple bolts.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b
26
Mamacita
A fine route - the long and sustained extension above Newie.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
27
El ave fénix
The left-hand extension above García aguas.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
28
Gabiel hermafrodita
A right-hand extension to García aguas.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
29
Escorpion
A confusing line - there appears to be two lines of bolts for the same moves. Follow the pale rib and rightwards-rising...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
30
The Splits
Head up the steep intermittent crack that starts above the right side of a shallow depression.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
31
Slimbo
The thin crack in the steep wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
32
Stonker
The cracks on the right-hand side of the steep wall.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b
33
La princesa Carol
The grey flowstone and tufa right of the steep wall.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5c
34
Federacion corruta
Start up the low-angled grey slab right of La princesa Carol.
 
3 Stars
??
35
Mariada de payasos
Start up Federacion corruta and then branch out rightwards at the steepening. Rejoin Federacion corruta high up.
 
3 Stars
??
36
Talibania
The steep right-hand side of the cave has a juggy steep section that leads to harder climbing. Continuing above the lower-off...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
37
Egoa.nu
 
3 Stars
7b+
38
Pesadillo
 
3 Stars
8a
39
Vivac porus Top 50
A good, sustained and well-travelled pitch.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
40
Vivac porus Extension
 
3 Stars
??
41
El don nadie
 
3 Stars
7c
42
Si no hay rally no hay chapas
Branch out right from El don nadie.
 
3 Stars
7c
43
El señor de las tinieblas (P1)
A popular first pitch which is a bit of a wrestle up the big corner - see p.85.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
44
Fahrenheit
The short arete right of the corner.
2 user comments
 6c
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  • Latest Comments

    For FRONTALES

    Poema de roca (P1)
    "The guidebook is wrong. I haven't seen such a terrible mistake. On the guidebook..." 26/Mar top50

    Small People
    "One bouldery crux over the bulge (just above the 4th bolt), safely bolted, then ..." 12/Mar

    Vivac porus
    "Outstanding maybe, but now very slick. Are there no un-polished classics left in..." 07/Dec top50

    Seco y Pedro
    "The new route up the soaring groove to the right looks quite hard but is a reall..." 28/May top50

    Putifero
    "I agree that the route would now be better described as 6a. A long nice route it..." 31/Jan top50

    El osito polar
    "extra bolted, pay attention at a loose rock on the middle" 06/Jan

    Un monton de chatarra
    "3 bolts are now missing in the middle of this, so you have to finish off on Big ..." 23/Dec

    Agip
    "Nice route. More like 6b, and needs extra gear between bolt 3 and 4 unless you e..." 12/Apr top50

    Cuatro elephants
    "You DO get down from the top on a 60m rope. If the belayer is clipped to the bol..." 19/Mar

    Edelweiss
    "Now it is harder than 5+, maybe even more pieces has fallen" 14/Mar

    Un monton de chatarra
    "Backed off this as there seems to be a bolt missing, maybe due to rockfall? The ..." 01/Mar

    Frente popular de Judea
    "New route to te right called "La mata no se toca" 6c ecxellent climb 3..." 06/Jan

    Agip
    "Defo 6b with some very slick footholds at the crux." 03/Dec top50

    El osito polar
    "As for Amigas de Lulu, worth the trip to Solarium. Comfortable on a 50m rope." 01/May

    Escorpion
    "A tough 6a for the first 6 or 7 metres and an enjoyable romp on good holds for t..." 05/Apr

    Clint Eastwood
    "Didn't find the belay between pitches 2&3 so it felt tough as a big pitch - ..." 31/Dec

    Vas pisando huevos
    "An odd climb which suddenly goes right to a lower off when a climbable groove be..." 25/Oct

    Gaby
    "The correct name of this route is 'Gaby'" 05/Jul

    Nitti
    "There is 6 pitch. I think they are 5+, 5+, 5, 6b, 5 and 6a." 26/May top50

    Jailhouse Rock
    "I thought this was harder than Tinto with a thin reachy bulge and 6b seemed abou..." 03/May

    Putifero
    "Great climbing after a tricky and polished start. Name clearly written on the ba..." 12/Apr top50

    Frente popular de Judea
    "1st pitch is exellent, but even with an 80m rope, you must be careful when lower..." 09/Apr

    Valentines Day
    "First pitch harder than 4+, more like 6a, in fact the whole route seemed solid 6..." 19/Mar

    El orejazo
    "Very nice and still climbable if the tufas are a bit wet." 25/Feb

    Agip
    "Agree this is harder than the route to the right. I and two others did both rout..." 10/Jan top50

    Putifero
    "Not any easier than the 6as hereabouts. Very nice climbing though." 13/Dec top50

    Kukeman tupery
    "My friend worked this as I worked trango next door and he said it was hard for t..." 23/Nov

    Irmchen
    "Okay so it might be 6a and not technical, but it is long, strenuous and quite in..." 25/Oct top50

    Cuatro elephants
    "This route is about 35-40m (!!) and not 30m as indicated. It was quite annoying ..." 22/Oct

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