South Face

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Lots of sun!
10 mins
Level
Abseil
Tidal

This superb and atmospheric section of cliff has plenty to offer at a reasonable grade although the exposed location and committing blind approaches tend to make the routes feel quite serious.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Quoin
This exposed route is based on the south-west arete of the face. Expect a little crunchy rock and the odd loose flake in the...
 
1 Stars
HS
2
Poltergeist
Excellent. Ascend the lower wall, breaking away from Quoin to climb into a deep groove. Follow this on steepening rock and...
 
2 Stars
HVS
3
Telekinesis
Similar to Polergeist, but a little less obvious. Move right out of the sister route to follow a steep groove system. Continue...
 
1 Stars
HVS
4
Neurosis
Less-often climbed. You need a low-ish tide and hanging stance tactics to get started on this one. Climb up on steep rock to...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2
5
Preposterous Tales Top 50
This route is a wild, crazy trip into the bowels of the earth. It starts as for Quoin, and traverses into the low sea cave to...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E2
6
High Life
An excellent rising traverse which is a great way to experience this face, giving good exposure at a reasonably friendly...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E1
7
Frigid Digits
To start, abseil to a tiny ledge at the high water mark, just east of the Preposterous Tales cave. Climb the wall just left of...
 
1 Stars
E2
8
Dayglow Saracen
To Start, abseil to a tiny ledge at the high water mark, just east of the Preposterous Tales cave. Break out right from the...
 
1 Stars
E2
9
Exogen
To start, abseil to tidal ledges below a curving niche. Step left off the ledge, and climb a steep crack to a short-lived...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3
10
Wavelength
A terrific line. To start, abseil to tidal ledges below a curving niche. Pull into the chimney-crack, and follow it until it...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3
11
The Book
This line makes the best use of the hanging, bottomless grooveline found high up on the crag. The route can be split into 2...
 
1 Stars
HVS
12
Dope Without a Rope
Start up Warm Waves, (or higher). Break up left to follow a thin corner to the top.
1 user comment
 HVS
13
Chakademus and Pliers
A nicely out-there upper pitch. Start at the big ledges. Break left out of Warm Waves, to climb the excellent steep juggy wall...
 
1 Stars
E1
14
Warm Waves
This one's more amenable; good climbing, and good positions. Can be split into two pitches. From a belay close to sea-level...
 
1 Stars
VS
15
Wensleydale
Start up a difficult to spot corner, roughly mid-way across this wall. Climb the corner then follow easy ground right to join...
 
1 Stars
HVS
16
Trade Wind
This steep testpiece is mighty appealing. Recommended is starting from the big half-height ledges, as the original bottom pitch...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E4
17
Ocean Passage
A grand and engaging little adventure, with a comfortable half-height belay option. Climb out of the lower cleft, and continue...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
18
Lundy Road
Another good route; steep, but well-littered with jugs. Move right from the lower stance, and climb the steep wall above, to a...
 
1 Stars
E2
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  • Latest Comments

    For BOSHERSTON HEAD

    Keelhaul
    "Set off in a confident mood which completely vanished after slipping on wet hold..." 09/Dec

    High Life
    "E2 5c" 20/Dec

    Keelhaul
    "The best E2 I've done in Pembroke, should be top 50. A beautiful, absorbing rout..." 16/Sep

    Intensive Scare
    "This route gets E3 5c in the new Climbers Club guide..... and even though it wou..." 08/Jul

    Keelhaul
    "Amazing route although being little slick at the bottom led to an over-griping p..." 07/Jun

    Sunny Corner
    "Really awkward corner- good gear- but 'squirming' onto the hanging slab sums it ..." 01/Jun

    Keelhaul
    "Just brilliant; the great sequence of moves to gain the overhang quite a way abo..." 31/Mar

    Ghost Ship
    "I was so surprised after a damp and slippery start, the route was a pleasure, no..." 15/Dec

    Ghost Ship
    "Brilliant route & not really very sustained in my opinion" 01/Sep

    Ghost Ship
    "Fully deserving of top 50 status. Classic Pembroke - steep, long, outrageous exp..." 01/Sep

    Preposterous Tales
    "Elation, no. Nausea, yes." 01/Mar top50

    Keelhaul
    "Brilliant, should be in the Top 50" 31/Aug

    Baker's Door
    "Excellent fingery climbing. Exiting the initial shallow corner is probably the c..." 26/Aug

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