Face du Grand Rappel

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Early morning sun
40 mins
Downhill
Sheltered

The most impressive piece of rock at Calanque d'en Vau by a mile is the long shadowy wall that forms the true right bank of the calanque. There is a fine collection of multi-pitch routes here, up to five pitches long. All have some fixed gear though the carrying of a light rack is a good idea. Many of the routes have been popular for years and have the patina to prove it.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Super Calanque
1) 4c, 2) 4a, 3) 4c, 4) 5c. At the far end on the ledge system where a short abseil gains the start. Steady climbing (polished)...
 
2 Stars
5c
2
Le Calendal
1) 5a, 2) 6a, 3) 5c, 4) 5c, 5) 5c. Start from the water line, or from the ledge. Four pitches of sustained climbing on good...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6a
3
La Calanque
1) 4a, 2) 4a, 3) 4a, 4) 4c, 5) 5a. Start up a chimney groove then trend left to climb the crest of the buttress. It can be done...
 
3 Stars
5a
4
Directe de la Calanque
1) 4a, 2) 6a+, 3) 4c. A more direct and harder finish.
 
2 Stars
6a+
5
La gamma
1) 6a, 2) 6b+, 3) 6c, 4) 5a, 5) 6a+. A fine sustained climb on good rock up the east-facing side-wall of the major groove.
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
6c
6
Éperon des Américains
1) 5c, 2) 6b, 3) 5c, 4) 6b, 5) 6b+. A great classic put up by John Harlin, Gary Hemming and Royal Robins in 1963. Approach via...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
7
Pilier droit du couloir du milieu
1) 5c, 2) 6b, 3) 6b. The first bolt is a bit high. Above this things improve to a fine finale on the upper buttress.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6b
8
La tostine
1) 6a, 2) 5a, 3) 4a. Start up a wide flake/crack rising from the ledge. Carry a small rack to supplement the fixed gear.
 
2 Stars
6a
9
Pilier gauche de la Passerelle
1) 4c, 2) 5c, 3) 6a, 4) 6a+. The soaring pillar to the right of the huge brown caves in four pitches. Carry a small rack to...
 
2 Stars
6a+
10
Pilier droite de la Passerelle
1) 4c, 2) 5c, 3) 4c, 4) 6a. This is the tall tower right above the beach approached by a steep scramble. Carry a small rack to...
 
2 Stars
6a
11
Super-doume
1) 6a, 2) 6c, 3) 6a. The centre of the clean wall right above the beach.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6c