Le Muret to Westpoint

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Morning sun
2 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

With some fine red walls on the left (Le Muret) and more typical Châteauvert pocketed grey limestone over to the right, this area has something for most tastes. The left-hand section in particular (round the old walling) is recessed and especially sheltered, making a good destination on Mistral days. The central part of this area faces more to the west and so gets the sun later. It also has a collection of shorter easier climbs on nice grey rock as well as some bigger pitches. Round to the right are some east-facing walls, good for afternoon shade.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Thérèse troïka
The left-hand line gives good climbing to tricky finish. Please try to avoid destroying the ancient wall at the bizarre spooky...
 
3 Stars
Strong
6a+
2
Red Cross
Fine sustained climbing throughout.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b
3
Serpelin
Another sustained and pumpy pitch; good rock and holds.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
4
Destination liberté
Start by bouldering out of the cave and weave up the wall. Just for a change, it's a pumpy number!
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
6c+
5
Embraye
A steep start leads to the easier (and pleasant) groove above.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
6b
6
Strawberry nose
A fierce start (well bolted) to the right of the cave leads to easier, but sustained climbing above. BE AWARE of the big drop...
 
3 Stars
Strong
7a+
7
Figue molle
A new route up the centre of the red wall with three cruxes linked by sustained moves.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
8
Un quart d'heure de folie
A lovely pitch, long and sustained.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b
9
Nuage
A couple of tricky moves and lots of fine pocket pulling. Quite low in the grade and a good objective for breaking through.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b
10
Australie
Keep to the right of the bolts, a bit of a squeeze job.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
11
Cabriole
The next line is better, much better. Climb the tufa to the ledge then move left to access the long groove line. Quite complex...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b
12
La liberté c'est pas la porte à côté!
Start as for the previous route but at the ledge take the right-hand crack until the pillar on the left can be accessed. Finish...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
13
Patagonie
The crux utilises a drilled mono - ugly!
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7b+
14
Cap Horn
This one starts off steadily enough then ramps up the value to a fine burley finish.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
15
Igloo
Great climbing despite the odd chipped (and avoidable) hold. Bolted with rather thin and old looking staples.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
16
Terre de feu
Start as for Igloo, but take the blobby right-hand line.
 
1 Stars
7a+
17
Transmutation
A big pitch with fine climbing and a variety of blind moves plus some odd holds.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7b
18
Borderline
A long and varied pitch. There is a lower off at 15m too which can be used to cut down the rope-drag.
 
3 Stars
6b+
19
Le colibri
A great (and l-o-n-g) pitch up the right-hand side of the face, spiralling leftward to finish up the crack in the side-wall....
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5c
20
Le syndrome du saumon
Start as for the next routes but traverse out left onto the face. Climb up to the groove and finish up the wall.
 
2 Stars
5c
21
Papa, on joue au foot?
A nice sustained pitch up the west-facing wall.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
22
T'as pas cent balles?
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
23
La santé par les plantes
The hanging arête gives a good work-out.
 
2 Stars
Strong
6b+
24
Les plantes qui savent
 
2 Stars
Strong
5c
25
Eole
1) 5c, 2) 4c. The nice arête leads to ledges and a belay. Cross the gully for the rest.
 
3 Stars
5c
26
Ça glisse au pays des merveilles
The scoopy groove has a tricky fingery start then easier bulges.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
5c
27
Saute meissuge
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
4a
28
Looping
Quite solid for the grade.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
4c
29
La fête à neuneu
The start is tricky, then it eases.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5c
30
L'odeur des pierres
The sustained flake on the right side of the face.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5c
31
Les 101 bactratiens
Enjoyable enough if you don't mind a bit of ledge shuffling.
 
2 Stars
5a
32
Le marchand de sable
 
2 Stars
5c
33
Douce transe
 
1 Stars
Rounded
5c
34
Le râteau de la méduse
Start as for Douce transe, but trend right up ledgy rock. Most easily cleaned by seconding the route.
 5a
35
Bonboudan
The left arête of the wall - short and steep
 
1 Stars
Strong
5c
36
Cabessa de mule
 
1 Stars
Strong
6a
37
Chipie
Big holds but quite hard work!
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5c
38
Choupette
Another steep work-out.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5c
39
Liquer de chêne
Continues the theme of short and stout.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5c
40
La galéjade
A taller route weaves up the wall to the right. Crimpy and with rather space bolts in places.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b+
41
Les enfants du roc
A bit more like it, quality fun up the face and groove.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
6a
42
Westpoint
Good powerful climbing up the centre of the tower.
 
3 Stars
6b
43
Pog, pog, poggers'
A tricky rightwards traverse at mid-height forms the crux.
 
2 Stars
6a+