Roadside Buttresses

Adjacent Areas
< Le Gaga  |  Eastern Buttresses >

Sport
Sun and Shade
0 mins
Roadside

Running east from the main buttresses are plenty of lesser rocks, plus a few fine walls and some impressive caves. Generally these face more to the east than the rest of the crag, so make a good retreat in hotter weather. Trees provide added shade too.
The first routes described are in and around an impressive cave that is tricky to spot, despite being only seconds from the road.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
E'daski
The left arête, a tricky start and steep finish.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
2
Alexandre du blocos
Steep, hard and with spaced bolts. A left-hand variant is RWN, 7b+.
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
7c+
3
Bill boulette
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8a
4
My biautiful pioulette
Pockets through the bulge lead to the left-trending hanging flake. Climb this to its end, then up the wall. Excellent and bold.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
7a+
5
Hermine troutrou
Start as for the last route, but at the start of the flake pull rightwards onto the smooth, steep face and climb this....
 
3 Stars
Strong
7c
6
Coco bel oeil
The leftward exit from the cave, crossing the roof to the groove above and a finish on the left. Steep, powerful and with the...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Loose
7a+
7
Power
The well-named exit out of the back of the cave - swinging through Bucket City but can you keep pulling?
 
3 Stars
Strong
7b+
8
Miss Tintinguette
Easier monkeying about over the right-hand side of the roof and up the wall above. The double knee-bar rest is worth seeking...
 
3 Stars
Strong
7a
9
Les eléments ne fond pas de cadeau
Another great route. Climb the wall, skirting the right-hand side of the big roof (tackled direct by Ferdando Fait le Rat, 7c),...
 
3 Stars
7b
10
Rage de dents
Start as for the previous route, but trend right to pass the bulges and access the base of an angular groove above. Up this to...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
11
Etranger aux vérités premières
Trend left up the big pockets to access the grey streak and finish pleasantly up this. The crux is a dyno or a crimp move.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b+
12
Ragondin
At long last something easier.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
5c
13
Plume d'aigle
A route on the left flank of the next roadside buttress.
 
1 Stars
6a
14
I had a dream
Fingery climbing up the crinkly wall. The 1st bolt is high.
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
6c
15
Les assassins sont parmi nous
Climb through the two niches (high first bolt - but not too hard) and on up the wall.
 
2 Stars
6a+
16
Le sot périlleux
Nice climbing with a bit of stopper bouldery crux.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
17
Pleine lune Top 50
The pocketed left-hand side of the cave.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7a+
18
Défi
Exit from the cave to gain and climb the blank groove on the right - sequency. Pull right onto the face to finish.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b+
19
Moon Safari
The lower line around the right-hand rim of the cave.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a+
20
Métèque et mat
A line up the right-hand rib has a hard bouldery start.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
21
Luther King
A pleasant climb up the left-hand side of the buttress.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6a
22
Retour de manivelle
The short and uninspiring central route of the trio.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
5b
23
Africa Queen
A bit more like it; a fine route up the right-hand pillar.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a+