Déverse Satanique

Adjacent Areas
< L'Hermitage  |  Cayenne >

Sport
Afternoon sun
5 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Sheltered

A super-steep crag (originally known as Pupuce Surplomb) with a massive collection of hard to very hard routes - you need to be operating in the 8s to make the most of a visit here, though the talent will be rewarded by some amazing climbs. Everybody now calls it Deverse. Deverse Satanique (8a) and Dies Irae (8a+) are the best natural routes (sharing the same start) above the blocks on the left. Most other routes have some chipped pockets. Obviously very steep, the routes are real tests of power and endurance, because there are not many rests. Soul Sacrifice (8b, equipped by Philip Maurel) is one of the best of this type. Here a selection of the best of the 40+ routes and variations.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Deverse satanique
The start is a hard 7b (chain on the right). Continue up the difficult pink tufa to good knee-bars. Continue direct, from here...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
2
Dies Irae
Follow Déverse Satanique to the knee-bar rest then trend diagonally right across the leaning wall with difficulty.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
3
Mekanik destruktif
Polished and chipped, the warm up!
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
7c
4
Soul Sacrifice
A beta-intensive classic. Hard for the grade.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b
5
Last Soul Sacrifice
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8c
6
Qoussai
To the first chain with a hard move early on.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
7
Les maux de la fin
Long and unrelenting. Don't spend too much time upside down.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8c
8
Trip Tik to Nik

1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
9a
9
Super Tango
Classic tufa pinching and lots of drop knees, plus a couple of poor knee bars might get you up it.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
10
Tango To Nik
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8c
11
Abyss
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
9a
12
Caligula
To the first chain.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
13
Caligula Extension
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a
14
La ligne noire
To the first chain - poor.
2 user comments
 
Technical
Strong
7a+
15
La ligne noire Ex 1
To the second chain.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a
16
La ligne noire Ex 2
To the third chain.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a+
17
Once I had a Friend
Tough climbing to the first chain.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
18
Once I had a Friend Ex
There is a 3rd extension at 8a+.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a
19
Pas vu pas pris
To the first chain.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c
20
Pas vu pas pris Ex 1
To the second chain.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
21
Pas vu pas pris Ex 2
To the third chain.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a
22
Turbinator
The tufa, then right to a tricky finish.
 
3 Stars
Strong
7c+
23
Vigor
The direct start to Turbinator, 7c+.
 
3 Stars
Strong
8a