Cayenne

Adjacent Areas
< Déverse Satanique  |  Jurassic Park >

Sport
Sun and Shade
32 mins
Downhill
Seepage
Sheltered

This steep crag is home to 20+ routes/variations up some fine tufa-encrusted walls. They get afternoon shade and offer some climbing in the rain, at least until the seepage sets in. An 80m rope is needed for the longest climbs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Action Réaction
A pleasant warm up. Be aware of the detached block near the top.
 
1 Stars
Loose
6c
2
Unknown 7a
The wall just right gives an interesting route with good moves.
 
2 Stars
7a
3
La légende de bibi-phoque
Thin and technical moves up the narrow groove.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
4
Zitounette Top 50
A great little climb.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7b
5
Et on finit en Sardaigne
A frustrating climb that is virtually impossible for short people. Move right out of Zitounette via very long reaches.The...
 
Reachy
Pumpy
7c
6
A strap titi
A really bizarre line but with great moves. Lots of bolts.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c
7
Poulets Boulets
Very good and varied climbing. Beware rope drag.
 
3 Stars
Strong
7b
8
Sika casse couilles
A good introduction to the harder routes, offering some difficult climbing interspersed with very good rests.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
9
Welcome to the Jungle
A brilliant and varied route.The name Mesa Verde is just visible (painted on the rock) where the next four routes start.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a
10
Cédric n'aime pas les slashs
An excellent leftwards variation finish to Cayenne.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
11
Cayenne
The classic of the crag offering very steep and pumpy climbing on surprisingly good holds. The crux section can be climbed by a...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
12
Cayenne fufu
Continue past the chain of Cayenne to join and finish up the best section of Hong Kong Fufu on natural holds.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
13
Hong Kong Fufu
A poor route, due to chipped holds on the lower section.
 8b
14
Shakti
On of the best of its grade in the region, however it stays wet after heavy rain. There is a fine extension - no change in...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
15
Mesquineries
Very hard work on the skin. It is 8a if you lower off from the belay on Incinerator 31.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
16
Incinerator 31
Short and very powerful.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
8b
17
Septembre noir
Just round right from Incinerator 31 - a difficult start leads to the bulges above and a precarious finish.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
18
Dieu ne joue pas aux des
From the rest on Septembre noir, move right to follow the intermittent tufas via some long reaches then some crimping. There is...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
7a+
19
Holy Chicken Salad
Interesting climbing leads to a difficult finish.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
20
Palmasoutra
Climb the technical corner, moving right at the top.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
21
Kokopeli
A great little route up the tufas and slab right of Palmasoutra.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
22
Marc Attack
Similar to Kokopeli, but more fingery.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b+
23
Inconnu l'Orient Express
A devious line with good moves, up the corner to the right.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b+