Main Face

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
30 mins
Uphill
Windy

This huge and complex west-facing wall is undoubtedly the main event here. The face is criss-crossed by around 50 routes, and a selection of the best are included here. The amount of fixed gear varies so carry a rack. Double ropes, a helmet and water are sensible.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Melissa
1) 7a, 2) 7a, 3) 7a+, 4) 6c+, 5) 7b, 6) 7b+. Fine and arduous climbing up the rounded pillar that forms the left edge of this...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
2
La directissime
1) 5c, 2) 6a, 3) 6a+, 4) 6a, 5) 5c, 6) 6a), 7) 5c, 8) -, 9) 5c. A great effort for 1959 - the route follows the long...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
3
La Mafia
1) 6b+, 2) 7a+, 3) 6a+, 4) 6a+, 5) 7a, 6) 6b+, 7) 5a, 8) 6a.One of Saint-Jeannet's very finest routes - long, sustained...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
4
Divine tentation
1) 6c, 2) 5c, 3) 6a+. Three fully-bolted pitches up the wall to the right of La Mafia. Abseil decent, or continue up La Mafia....
 
2 Stars
6c
5
Le jardin suspendu
1) 6a+, 2) 5c, 3) 5a, 4) -, 5) 5a, 6) 5a, 7) 4a, 8) -, 9) 5c. A wandering route that is worthwhile, and less vegetated than the...
 
2 Stars
6a+
6
Vive le vent
1) 6c 2) 6b) 3) 6b. Another three-pitch, fully-bolted route that plugs a gap between the natural lines with some excellent...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
7
Le innominata
1) 4a, 2) 5c, 3) 3+, 4) 3+, 5) 3+, 6) 5a, 7) 5a, 8) 2+, 9) 4a. A bit of a wanderer, but one of the first routes on the face...
 
2 Stars
5c
8
Pour qui sonne le glas
1) 6a, 2) 5a, 3) 5c, 4) 5c, 5) 6b, 6) 5a, 6) 6c, 7) 6b, 8) 6c, 9) 4c, 10) 3. A route with a great deal of fine climbing on good...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
9
Jardins sécrets
1) 6a+, 2) 7a, 3) 6c, 4) 4a, 5) 6a+, 6) 6c, 7) 6a+, 8) 2. A fine, direct route with a lot of excellent climbing across a...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
10
La malet
1) 3, 2) 3+, 3) 3, 4) 4a, 5) 4a, 6) 3+, 7) 4a, 8) 5a, 9) 4a, 10) 5a, 11) 3, 12) 3, 13) 2. The first route on the cliff was put...
 
2 Stars
5a
11
La super-malet
1) 6a, 2) 5a, 3) 6a. A link that cuts out the first big loop on the original route by three good and direct pitches. Take the...
 
2 Stars
6a
12
La loco
1) 5a, 2) 5c, 3) 6b, 4) 5a, 5) 5c, 6) 5c. An imposing climb with two long, steep, sustained and wide crack-systems before...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
Loose
6b