Medusa Falls Area

Adjacent Areas
< Sacred Angel Area  |  None >

Sport
Sun and Shade
12 mins
Downhill

A superb wall with stunning flowstone that is also slightly less exposed to the weather than the other Blacknor crags.
Approach - From the car park, walk to the cliff-top path and walk right for 80m. Scramble down into a quarry, walk through a large block wall and then down a narrow gully at the far end of the quarry (rope sometimes in place). This gully emerges below the Medusa Falls Area.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Lizard of Oz
Great fun. A popular introduction to the flowstone experience. The start is the crux, but save something for the strenny...
22 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a+
2
Snakes Alive
A very good series of moves. The fourth bolt is difficult to clip.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
6b
3
Slither
A tight line. Crimps on the steep lower wall lead to long and balancy moves up a faint crack in the upper slab.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
4
Medusa Falls Top 50
An incredible frozen sheet of flowstone pipes. The initial section is insecure and slippery if taken direct.
22 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a
5
To Wish the Impossible Top 50
A superb pitch. Sustained and delicate climbing with a strenny finish.
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a
6
Psychosomatic Addict
Very similar to To Wish the Impossible, with escalating difficulties up the wall, narrow groove and headwall.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
7
Crack My Bitch Up
An easy corner leads to a hard, exposed finish.
19 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b
8
Kamikaze Moped
A short-lived fingery section and a good finish.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
9
The Oldest Profession
Sometimes wet, but it is worth waiting for.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
10
Loose Cannon
The black rib has some good moves.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7a
11
Turned to Stone Top 50
One of Portland's finest routes. Some thin pocket moves and a great finish all on immaculate flowstone.
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c+
12
Skids of Mark
The smooth wall has difficult moves over a bulge. Finishing up the upper section of Turned to Stone gives a worthwhile 7a+.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b
13
Bum Droplets
An exciting route that looks like its name. The upper layback section takes a little working out.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b+
14
Cut Throat Jake
Quality climbing with a pocketed lower wall.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
15
Cute Ass
A fingery headwall similar to the Battleship Edge routes.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
16
No Ifs, No Butts
The wall right of Cute Ass direct to a slim finishing groove and headwall.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
17
Seaman Stains
Similar to the others on this section of the crag. Go careful with the clips and rock low down.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
18
Hello Sailor
A good line up the shallow arete.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
19
Master Bates
A fine sustained groove leads to a swing left at the mid-height crux shelf.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
20
Kite Marks
The wall, narrow groove and upper overhang.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a
21
Captain Pugwash
Varied with a balancy start leading to a wild finish through the roof on buckets. It is worth trying to add a bit to the finish...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
22
Roger the Cabin Boy
Similar climbing to Captain Pugwash. The flake on the crux is suspect so treat it with care. Low in the grade.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
23
The Black Pig
The huge leaning arete at the end of the raised ledge is split by a rest ledge. Photogenic with fine moves high up.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
24
Still My Bleeding Heart
The long corner flake is dirty and loose.
3 user comments
 
Loose
6a+