Bonsai Area

Adjacent Areas
< The New Cuttings  |  Mindmeld Area >

Sun and Shade
5 mins

The far left-hand end of The Cuttings has lots of very popular lower-grade routes that are getting very polished. The difficulties keep themselves well hidden and some of the routes have been upgraded. It is worth noting that some of the bolts are not right next to the harder moves, and there is an unhealthy number of ledges, so care must be exercised when leading here. The routes (up to Little Chef) were bolted by members of Basingstoke M.C. The lines are slightly awkward to distinguish, so pause and check before you climb.
Approach - Follow Church Ope Road under an arch and down to a flat area with some benches. From here, take the coast path (not the path to Church Ope Cove) to a wide track which leads to The Cuttings in a couple of minutes. This wall is just above the track that drops down between The New Cuttings and The Cuttings.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
Eat, Stick, and Die
The first short line on the wall. Move up to the second bolt and using an undercut traverse up right to a lower-off.
2 user comments
We're Only Placing Bolts For Nigel
Climb up and move left to the second bolt to join the short traverse of Eat Stick, and Die to finish.
17 user comments
Cheese and Pickle
A difficult and fluttery pitch. Move up onto a ledge and climb direct to a lower-off. Climbing up on the left is equally...
2 user comments
Parsnip Soup
A testing little pitch. Climb the shallow rib and finish on some very sloping holds.
2 user comments
Corporal Punishment
Move up onto a ledge. Climb the steep wall via some pockets and high friction crimps.
3 user comments
On Manoeuvres
Very polished. Gain a ledge with difficulty and finish more easily up the wall and breaks to a lower-off.
Arc Angel
Make very difficult moves onto a ledge at 3m. Move up and right past a large pocket to finish.
3 user comments
Charity Work Mate
Make an awkward move up onto a ledge at 3m. Climb direct past a pocket as for Arc Angel to its lower-off.
1 user comment
Magical Misty Tour
Climb the cracks, ledges and walls above the buddleia bush.
2 user comments
Start between the two ground-level bushes. Climb to the left of the bolts all the way to the top and reach right to clip the...
6 user comments
Sting in the Tail
Climb direct to a good break below the final wall. Climb the wall with difficulty, right of the bolts and reach left to clip...
17 user comments
Baron's Revenge
Climb a short technical corner and continue to the final delicate wall.
Chicken Boy
Sustained climbing up the white wall on sloping holds.
Tantrums and Tiaras
Start up the narrow groove right of Chicken Boy and left of a shattered groove.
100 Sunny Days
Nice climbing to the right of the shattered groove.
Climb up and right before making some hard moves up and right again to get established in the upper break. Finish Direct.
20 user comments
Rock Lobster
The slim groove gives a sustained and demanding pitch with a hard initial 3m.
10 user comments
A good climb. Start just right of the initial bolt and pull up into the corner. Follow the corner and flake-line to the top.
7 user comments
1 Stars
The Great Hamburger Disaster
An enticing line. Climb the crack-line past a small rattly hold - low in the crack - to an awkward exit below the short final...
9 user comments
1 Stars
Definitely Maybe
The narrow wall is best taken to the right of the bolts.
15 user comments
1 Stars
Little Chef
The groove with an old peg is hard to enter.
6 user comments
1 Stars