Twll Mawr - Quarryman Wall

Sport
Morning sun
20 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

The massive and impressive hole of Twll Mawr is famous for its hard routes but a few more amenable multi-pitch sport routes have now been added increasing its appeal to lesser mortals. Although they are fully bolted, the location and atmosphere mean that they should be regarded as adventurous sport climbing.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Booooom, Blast and Ruin
Classic thrutching up the twin crackline just left of the bolted slabby arete of Dark Side of the Moon. Layback, udge or jam...
 
1 Stars
VS
2
Dark Side of the Moon
Desperate climbing up the thin and technical slabby arete. With a unique rockover that turns into a knee bar low down, before a...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b
3
Set the Controls for the Heart of the Sun
The striking right arete is very tricky past the first four bolts before relenting and giving fantastic climbing higher up.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
4
Imagine Dragons
An adventurous sport route. Start on a vegetated ledge by a sycamore.1) 6b, 20m. Follow the line of bolts steeply up a...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6b
5
Black Holes and Revelations
A great two-pitch expedition up the full height of the south wall. Start below a well-bolted slanting groove.1) 6b, 25m....
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
6
In The Line of Fire
An old route that can now be considered an open project since a rockfall destroyed some of the original bolts and holds!
 7c+
7
Supermassive Black Hole
A stellar line up this wall - something of a safe adventure. Start below a bolted groove.1) 7a, 25m. Climb the groove past...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
7a
8
Running Scared
A desperate pitch. Climb fairly easily up to a rest on the left. Thin climbing above this is the meat of the route.
 
1 Stars
7c+
9
Black Hole Sun
A belter of a route, possibly the best on this wall. 1) 7a+, 25m. Climb the blocky start to a ledge. A crackline points...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Reachy
7a+
10
Black Hole of Calcutta
A great route, although many people may wish to abseil in from the top of the fin to saviour the only mid-grade sport pitch in...
 
1 Stars
7a
11
The Hunted
The thin crack and wall directly beneath the centre of the alcove. Start just down and left of the Quarryman Wall, beneath an...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6
12
Fleur-de-Lis
Climb the initial easy groove to the top of a large flake on the left of Coeur de Lion with tricky moves traversing back right...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E6
13
Coeur De Lion
A desperate route which has probably never been repeated. A minimal description only is included here. 1) 7a, 25m....
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E8
14
Blockhead
A quality direct finish up the twin cracks above the London belay ledge. 1) 6c, 25m. Pitch 1 of The Quarryman up the...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E7
15
The Quarryman
This extraordinary outing sees few ascents as a complete route. Some abseil in to attempt the iconic groove pitch on its own....
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
E8
16
Meltdown
The route that escaped the great Johnny Dawes, was mopped up after a prolonged effort by Caff.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
9a
17
The Wonderful World of Walt Disney
A fantastic outing up the cliff and the easiest route on the Quarrymen wall.1) 6a, 35m. Climb the corner groove past a...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6
18
The Rock Bottom Line
Once the longest fully bolted sport route in the UK but it has now been surpassed by its neighbours on the North Wall of Twll...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+