Never Never Land

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
18 mins
Level
Sheltered

A great area, with some good modern sport routes and older run-out slabs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Macsen
A nice route just to the left of Hawkeye.
 
1 Stars
6a
2
Hawkeye
A pleasant route up the arete. A hard move low down to gain the easier ramp-line provides the crux.
 
1 Stars
5c
3
Fresh Air
Great open climbing. Ascend the line of bolts on the left of the slab to a lower-off.
 
2 Stars
5c
4
Swiss Air
Just to the right of Fresh Air. Often damp.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
5
State of the Heart
A technical route up weird angles and slopers with some sharp rock. Use long quick-draws and move right above the last bolt to...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
6c+
6
Yossarian
10m to the right of State of the Heart, just right of the 'clockface'. Climb the overlapping slab between the two aretes.
 
1 Stars
6b+
7
Steps of Escher
The hanging arete to the right of Yossarian. Pad up the black slab to the foot of the V-groove. Swing up and left and follow...
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
8
Tomb Raider
A good two-pitch sport route. Start left of the main slab, just to the right of a concrete slab.1) 5+, 25m. Climb directly...
 
1 Stars
6a
9
Back in the Saddle
Start up Tomb Raider and then take the much more challenging and intricate line through the overlaps to the left.
 
1 Stars
6b+
10
Octogenerian
Just to the left of the arete of 362 is a line of bolts up the diagonal slanting ledges.
 
2 Stars
5b
11
Learning to Fly
Clip the first shared bolt on Octogenarian before stepping left from the large foothold to follow the independent line of bolts...
 
1 Stars
5a
12
362
A decent three-pitch sport route. The name refers to the number of quarrymen who died working in the Dinorwig Quarry. 1)...
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a
13
Scheherezade
A technical route with a tough low crux followed by thin, sustained moves above bolts higher up. About 7a+ as a sport route.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4
14
The Machine in the Ghost
Thinner, more technical and much bolder than Scheherezade.
 E5
15
Never Never Land
A great route, and one of the better E5s in the quarries, although still a serious one. Start below the stepped roofs and...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5
16
Khubla Khan
A great route with a desperate crux. Climb up to the bolt easily, pass it directly with difficulty and then move left into the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E3
17
Short Stories
Bolts lead you up a lonely line on this slab. Technical, sustained and run-out, with a sting in the tail!
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4
18
Ghengis
A defunct hard route which has lost its peg and a flake. The route can still be done by clipping the second bolt on Short...
 E6
19
Dog and Bone
Starts with delicate moves up clean rock right of the slab and weaves it's way up the left hand side of the buttress. 7 bolts...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a
20
Operation Zig-Zag
The blunt arete just left of Release the Kraken. Positive holds and interesting moves.
 
2 Stars
5c
21
Release the Kraken
A nice bolted route to the left of The Carbon Stage.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b+
22
The Carbon Stage
A good route, although eliminate low down. High up it is more independent, with a jump for the short, or long stretch for the...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6c+
23
Zeus
The steep blocky bulges to a small shelf below a mantel.
 
1 Stars
Dyno
Pumpy
6a+
24
Titan
On the very edge of the buttress is an easy, long and exciting route. After a rockover to the left, the route moves right onto...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
4c