California Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
18 mins
Level
Sheltered

California is one of the quieter areas of the quarries, mainly as it only has harder routes with a more serious feel; California Arete may only be E1, but its a solo! Similarly, the main California Wall has two classic E5s.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tambourine Man
The extremely technical groove.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
2
We Speak No Americano
A great route up the wall which can be done in 2 pitches.1) 5, 10m. Climb the blocky groove to the grassy ledge.2)...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6a
3
A Pair of Six
Climb past a bolt to the ledge. Follow the crack above to a tree.Chris Davies, Mark Williams, Ian LLoyd Jones 5.6.2010
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E3
4
Slabs 'R' Us
A tough line, with tricky, technical moves up to and past the third bolt. Above the climbing eases.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
5
Shtimuli
The arete is only just well enough protected by the bolts. Climb up past the first bolt and a small cam to the second. Continue...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4
6
California Arete
A classic line of the quarries, and a must for any wannabe Slatehead. There is a poor lonely wire above all the hard climbing,...
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E1
7
Unpiad Bills
The green pillar in two pitches. Loose in places but with decent climbing. Old bolts.
 
Loose
E5
8
Primal Ice Cream
The corner is ridiculously run-out in places but never really desperate, any hard moves are near gear, although there is a hair...
 
Fluttery
Loose
E3
9
Espirit De Corpse
The finger crack is amazing and sustained however getting there from the tunnel is somewhat alarming due to some hollow flakes...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
E4
10
Simply Peach
The wall right of the tunnel is a sustained affair. Start on the ledge just right of the mouth of the tunnel and follow a thin...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5
11
Sad Old Red
Start a little further up the ledge from Simply Peach. Climb to a bolt before moving up past a flake to another bolt - shared...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4
12
Map Cap Laughs
The loose and hideous groove is best avoided.
 
Loose
E3
13
Spider Pants
As girdles go this is something of a classic. The first pitch is worthy of repeating in its own right. Start below the tapering...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E6
14
Central Sadness
Possibly the best route of its grade in the quarries. Start below a thin crack to the right of a tapering groove.1) 6a,...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5
15
Dwarf Shortage
A belter of a pitch. Start just to the right of crack of Central Sadness and climb past two bolts - both are hard to clip and...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
E5
16
Sombre Music
Another cracking pitch. From the left-hand end of the ledge that Waves of Inspiration starts from, climb the thin crack past a...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E6
17
Waves of Inspiration
A long pitch that keeps coming at you to the final move. Start at a bolt belay. Move up and left to gain a crack/break. Follow...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5
18
The Big Sur
Another classic although being tall is helpful if not essential for the crux. Start as for Waves of Inspiration and at 6m...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Fluttery
E6
19
Stairway to Silence
A desperate hard route on the right-hand edge os the slab. Start at a fixed belay on a ledge. Skyhooks are required for...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Fluttery
E7