Californian Arete Area

Adjacent Areas
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Morning sun
0 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

A shady wall that sees little traffic mainly because the routes are either hard, or bold, or both. The superb E1 solo of Californian Arete is worth a look if you are confident. We Speak No Americano! is an excellent sport route that has added to the appeal of the area.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The California Express
From the tunnel, walk up the scree and head back across a vegetated level between two trees - one is a memorial to Will Perrin....
 
1 Stars
3c
2
Welcome to the Machine
A technical start leads to a flake then back right to a ledge. Climb a groove above then move up left to another groove.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a
3
Tambourine Man
The extremely technical groove.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
4
We No Speak Americano!
A great route up the wall which can be done in two pitches.Climb the blocky groove to the grassy ledge (5b - possible...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6a
5
A Pair of Six
Climb past a bolt to the ledge. Follow the crack above to a tree.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E3
6
Slabs 'R' Us
A tough line, with tricky, technical moves up to and past the third bolt. Above the climbing eases.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
7
Shtimuli
The arete is only just well enough protected by the bolts. Climb up past the first bolt and a small cam to the second bolt....
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4
8
Aultimers Groove
The corner groove is steep at the start.
 E2
9
Californian Arete
A classic of the quarries, and a must for any wannabe Slatehead. There is a poor lonely wire above the hard climbing and an...
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E1
10
Wedlock Holiday
The smooth wavy groove to the right of Californian Arete is desperate. From the blast shelter make your way up the groove, past...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
E5
11
Classy Situations
The left-facing groove gives reasonable climbing and a steady head will get you up the upper wall.
 E2
12
Pitch Two
An alternative finish to Classy Situations up the shallow groove. Three bolts and a peg protect this desperate line.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E4
13
Midnight Flier
Start at a bolt belay on the exposed ledge and take the delicate flake-line. This requires plenty of thin slings, small wires,...
 
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5
14
NYQUIST
Bat hooks and bolts to the left-hand finish.
 
1 Stars
A3
15
Happy Hooking
More bat hooks and bolts!
 
1 Stars
A3
16
The Hobbit
A brilliant but damp and dirty line up the bolt-protected flake-line. More like a 7b, but take wires for the run-out to the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5
17
The Sneaking
The damp wall to the right of The Hobbit has some spaced bolts.
 E4
18
Ya Twistin Ma Melon Man
Climb the corner past three bolts and some extra gear. Just before the top move left into The Sneaking to finish.
 E3
19
New Rays from an Ancient Sun
An aid route left of the tunnel. Lethally loose at the top.
 
Loose
A2
20
Old Fart
An aid route up the edge of the lower cave.
 A3