Comes the Dervish

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

A great area with many classic routes, in a commanding position above the rest of the quarry and Llanberis.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Menopausal Discharge
A good route, that was chipped, although the crux is performed off more than a scratch for a foothold.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a+
2
Colditz
Climb up the initial wall to gain the crackjust below the apex. Reach out left to clip a bolts and gain the start of the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
3
Manic Strain
Another chipped route, which was 'designed' for tall climbers; shorter people find it much harder. Even for the tall it is...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
8a
4
Gin Palace
An amazing route, a 7b+ chimney into a harder and sustained headwall. Some will walk up the slot, others will just be totally...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
7c
5
Child's Play
Bridge up the groove until you can launch up the wall, via an initially unobvious sequence.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
6
For Whom the Bell Tolls
A bold outing, with the crux thankfully low down, but there is still lots of sustained and unprotected climbing all the way to...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6
7
Menstrual Gossip
The vague line of scoops that appears to be a 'weakness' in the slab about 3m to the right of Comes the Dervish. Climb up to...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6
8
Comes the Dervish
A stellar route, and one deserving of its reputation. Follow the crackline up for 8m to the first good runner. Easier climbing...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3
9
Belldance
Follow Comes the Dervish to a good jug above its dog-leg crux. The safety minded will climb up and place a high side runner...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5
10
Last Tango in Paris
Another classic line. Start up the parallel diagonal cracks near the arete and head up and right to a ledge. Some moves over a...
 
3 Stars
E2
11
Flashdance
An extremely bold and memorable outing up a vague line of scoops that link Last Tango in Paris and Comes the Dervish. From Last...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5
12
Breakdance
Climb Flashdance to the first good diagonal wire slot above Last Tango in Paris. Then head directly up the slab past a lonely...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E7
13
Poledance
Climb Flashdance to the first good diagonal crack/wire slot above Last Tango in Paris. Rock up onto the crack and step right....
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E6
14
Swinging By The Bell
Climb Last Tango in Paris to the start of the hand traverse. Break out across the wall and follow a line of weakness slightly...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5
15
The Full Monty
Follow the line of bolts to a lower-off, quite bold in places. A long 30m pitch.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
6a
16
Mister, Mister
Follow the The Full Monty, to where some bolts lead out left. Follow these to a lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
6b
17
The Sweetest Taboo
The original route of the slab gives some great bold climbing although it is not climbed very often these days. Start up the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4
18
Menage a Trois
A direct finish to Sweetest Taboo. Head straight up the wall trending rightwards past three bolts.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
6b
19
Is it a Crime
Follow the ramp-line at the bottom of the slab for 6m - good wire as a side runner. Step left onto a good spike runner. Now...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E3
20
Never as Good as the First Time
Start up Is it a Crime to its first bolt, and then step left and make a bold move up to gain a large flake. Follow the...
 
1 Stars
E2
21
Never as Sweet
A combination of routes that makes a great outing. Start up Is it a Crime to the flake and finish up Sweetest Taboo.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4
22
The Spark That Set the Flame
The bold feint crackline leads through a slight overlap. No real gear to speak of.
 
2 Stars
E5
23
Smokeless Zone
A thin bolted slab to a lower-off.
 
2 Stars
E4