Adjacent Areas
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Morning sun
20 mins
Uphill
Windy
The Nose of Dinas Mot is a fast-drying slab of perfect mountain rock and is home to some of the best technical pitches in Wales. Good footwork and small wires are essential here.
Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Cracks One of the finest climbs at this grade in the Pass. The final pitch has a tough and exposed 4c mantel, though it can be easily... | 3 Stars | HS |
2 |
Lorraine For those who found The Cracks easy enough, Lorraine provides a great sister route.1) 15m. Climb The Cracks to ledges at... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical | VS |
3 |
Lorraine Direct A cracking variation giving a long 40m pitch. From the first belay of Lorraine, go leftwards over the bulge as for the... | 2 Stars | HVS |
4 |
GBH Just above the pinnacle is an innocuous-looking steep crack. Reach it by following The Cracks or Lorraine. Move up into the... | 1 Stars Graunchy | E2 |
5 |
Direct Route One for the well-rounded VS leader, although some will find the entrance to the final pitch baffling.1) 4a, 15m. From the... | 3 Stars | VS |
6 |
Super Direct Are you a slab-master or a crack-addict? You'll need both skills for this classic.1) 4b, 30m. Start as for Direct Route.... | 3 Stars Technical | E1 |
7 |
Diagonal A fantastic, exciting and technical route.1) 5a, 30m. Start as for Direct Route to where it moves left. Follow a groove... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical | HVS |
8 |
Zeta An excellent thin slab climb with a desperate steep finish.1) 4b, 30m. As for Super Direct.2) 5c, 15m. Follow... | 2 Stars Technical | E3 |
9 |
Stairway to Heaven A good route with a fierce pull on pitch two, and a tricky groove on the last. Start below and just left of the large scoop... | 2 Stars | E3 |
10 |
West Rib A good HVS that can feel much harder if you aren't careful with your route-finding.1) 4b, 18m. Start 4m left of the wall.... | 2 Stars | HVS |
11 |
Western Slabs A good route that gets the evening sun in the height of summer. Start just left of the dry-stone wall by a stile.1) 4b,... | 2 Stars Technical | VS |
12 |
The Chain A superb variation to the Western Slabs or Western Rib final pitches. Start below the central crack in the tombstone and follow... | 2 Stars Technical | E1 |
13 |
Slow Ledge Climb A superb way to continue your adventure.1) 15m. Scramble up and right towards the quartzy pinnacle above the descent... | 2 Stars | VS |
14 |
Black Spring A good technical climb but P2 is often wet. 1) 4a, 15m. Climb up easy ground to the terrace.2) 5a, 25m. Gain a crack... | 2 Stars | HVS |