Adjacent Areas
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Morning sun
20 mins
Uphill
Windy
The Nose of Dinas Mot is a fast-drying slab of perfect mountain rock and is home to some of the best technical pitches in Wales. Good footwork and small wires are essential here.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Cracks One of the finest climbs at this grade in the Pass. The final pitch has a tough and exposed 4c mantel, though it can be easily... | 3 Stars | HS |
2 |
Lorraine For those who found The Cracks easy enough, Lorraine provides a great sister route.1) 15m. Climb The Cracks to ledges at... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical | VS |
3 |
Lorraine Direct A cracking variation giving a long 40m pitch. From the first belay of Lorraine, go leftwards over the bulge as for the... | 2 Stars | HVS |
4 |
GBH Just above the pinnacle is an innocuous-looking steep crack. Reach it by following The Cracks or Lorraine. Move up into the... | 1 Stars Graunchy | E2 |
5 |
Direct Route One for the well-rounded VS leader, although some will find the entrance to the final pitch baffling.1) 4a, 15m. From the... | 3 Stars | VS |
6 |
Super Direct Are you a slab-master or a crack-addict? You'll need both skills for this classic.1) 4b, 30m. Start as for Direct Route.... | 3 Stars Technical | E1 |
7 |
Diagonal A fantastic, exciting and technical route.1) 5a, 30m. Start as for Direct Route to where it moves left. Follow a groove... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical | HVS |
8 |
Zeta An excellent thin slab climb with a desperate steep finish.1) 4b, 30m. As for Super Direct.2) 5c, 15m. Follow... | 2 Stars Technical | E3 |
9 |
Stairway to Heaven A good route with a fierce pull on pitch two, and a tricky groove on the last. Start below and just left of the large scoop... | 2 Stars | E3 |
10 |
West Rib A good HVS that can feel much harder if you aren't careful with your route-finding.1) 4b, 18m. Start 4m left of the wall.... | 2 Stars | HVS |
11 |
Western Slabs A good route that gets the evening sun in the height of summer. Start just left of the dry-stone wall by a stile.1) 4b,... | 2 Stars Technical | VS |
12 |
The Chain A superb variation to the Western Slabs or Western Rib final pitches. Start below the central crack in the tombstone and follow... | 2 Stars Technical | E1 |
13 |
Slow Ledge Climb A superb way to continue your adventure.1) 15m. Scramble up and right towards the quartzy pinnacle above the descent... | 2 Stars | VS |
14 |
Black Spring A good technical climb but P2 is often wet. 1) 4a, 15m. Climb up easy ground to the terrace.2) 5a, 25m. Gain a crack... | 2 Stars | HVS |
