Phoenix Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
40 mins
Uphill
Windy

One of natural grit's more impressive buttresses and home to several worthwhile routes including the superb Phoenix Climb, one of Harding's very best. At a slightly lower grade Via Principia and Atherton Brothers are excellent and, a notch higher, the short but exposed and hyper-photogenic East Rib is a 'must-do'.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Orang Arete
Take the crack in the centre of the south-facing side wall to the deep break then move left and climb the short arete.
 VS
2
Grape Escape
Follow Orang Arete to where it heads left then climb the thin crack in the wall above and finish with difficulty and a monster...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
E3
3
Monkey Puzzle
Follow the previous routes to the break but then move right (thread) to a block and a second wider crack. Finish awkwardly up...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
VS
4
East Rib Top 50
Good climbing in a superb setting with good rests and protection. From the base of the crack of Monkey Puzzle trend right to...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVS
5
East Rib Direct
Climb the steep lower section of the arete to join the regular route. A poorly-protected lead, sometimes dirty, always bold.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5
6
Icon
Climb the wide crack (huge cam or wobbly chockstone) to its end, then climb the final green wall following the easiest line.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
HVS
7
Green Crack
A poor start leads to a better finale. Climb the crack in the left wall of the deep gloomy chimney (reached by a grotty, grassy...
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
HS
8
Atherton Brothers
Climb up to and then tackle the steep flake (not easy to protect) by sustained climbing until it is possible to mantelshelf...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
S
9
Phoenix Climb Top 50
Vintage Harding and well-worth the walk up. The superb straight crack gives classic jamming past a useful hole to reach easier...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VS
10
Via Principia Top 50
The wide chimney crack in the nose of the buttress leads past a bulge to a gritty ledge (possible stance). Step left into the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
S
11
Subsidiary Chimney
From the ledge of Via Principia squirm up the narrow chimney with some difficulty especially at the narrows.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S
12
Ave
From the ledge of Via Principia climb the steep flake just right of the chimney by committing layback moves to reach the wider...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS
13
Powerplay
The centre of the short face gives a fingery pitch. Climb left then right to ledges and an escape.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E2
14
Little Red Pig
The crack and groove lead to the pillar above. Tackle the steep slab, right then left, to a series of thin cracks linked by a...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS
15
Vanishing Groove
Follow the previous climb but step right to tackle the continuation of the lower groove 'til it vanishes. Finish up the face.
 S
16
Birthday Chimney
20m. Scramble up the gully and climb the groove on the left throughout.
 VD
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For SHINING CLOUGH

    Some Product
    "^what hell your problem knobend?" 08/Feb

    Main Wall Climb
    "More fun than it looks, and surely the only polished foothold on the whole crag!..." 30/Sep

    East Rib
    "Classic,never gets as hard as you think, good gear." 20/Jul top50

    Gremlin Groove
    "Shame its not longer." 26/May

    Galileo
    "Agreed - its a toughy, and the cracks are a lot rougher inside than your average..." 26/Apr

    The Egg Bowl
    "This route is extremely hard, never a Vdiff" 21/Sep

    Galileo
    "Pretty tough at E1, especially for the skinny fingered folk. Way harder than any..." 25/Aug

    The Rainbow
    "A lovely route, smiles all the way up" 19/Mar

    Monkey Puzzle
    "From the ground the second crack didn't look as steep as the first... until I en..." 08/Aug

    Galileo
    "It would be churlish to argue with the calls of 5c, not least because it is toug..." 06/Aug

    Nagger's Delight
    "Green." 28/Jul

    Pisa Super Direct
    "Wonderful climbing. I can't jam but still got a couple of fists in there, so pro..." 03/Jul top50

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