Pisa Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< The Rainbow Flake  |  The Big Wall >

Trad
Evening sun
40 mins
Uphill
Windy

The finest piece of rock on the cliff, a tall barrel of a buttress with an especially fine set of climbs. Pisa Super Direct is the one to aspire to; check out the photo opposite. The finger cracking Galileo is also much sought after - and usually turns out to be harder than you were expecting!

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Pisa
An indifferent start leads to an exciting finish. Start up the grassy gully on the left then follow cracks up the wall just...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
VS
2
Galileo
A strenuous and sustained pitch though with good protection throughout. High in the grade. Climb the steep finger-cracks to the...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
E1
3
Pisa Direct
Devious but long and involving. From the lowest point of the buttress climb the crack just left of the arete, then the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
4
Pisa Super Direct Top 50
Super direct and a super route. Start direct up thin cracks in the slab just right of the arete to join the parent route which...
13 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
HVS
5
Stable Cracks
The continuous crack-line up the right-hand side of the face is just a touch wide for comfort. It gives a poorly-protected...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
VS
6
Plastic Saddle
The narrow slab just to the right is climbed centrally and gives a bit of a rough ride. Some gardening might be needed.
 
Technical
Rounded
E1
7
Typists' Chimney
The deep chimney groove that bounds the right-hand side of the slab. A grubby and gloomy affair.
 Diff
8
Unicorn Cracks
Climb the diagonal crack in the right wall of the groove to its end then the cracks and a groove up and right to the top....
 HS
9
Trungel Crack
Climb the crack just left of the arete, passing a recess, to a sloping shelf on the right. A continuation crack leads through...
 
1 Stars
HVS
10
Obverse Route
6m. From the well scratched holds of the Ordinary Route trend right and climb the arete over a bulge. Quite beefy.
 VD
11
East Face
6m. Cross the east face diagonally and and climb the arete.
 S 4a
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For SHINING CLOUGH

    Some Product
    "^what hell your problem knobend?" 08/Feb

    Main Wall Climb
    "More fun than it looks, and surely the only polished foothold on the whole crag!..." 30/Sep

    East Rib
    "Classic,never gets as hard as you think, good gear." 20/Jul top50

    Gremlin Groove
    "Shame its not longer." 26/May

    Galileo
    "Agreed - its a toughy, and the cracks are a lot rougher inside than your average..." 26/Apr

    The Egg Bowl
    "This route is extremely hard, never a Vdiff" 21/Sep

    Galileo
    "Pretty tough at E1, especially for the skinny fingered folk. Way harder than any..." 25/Aug

    The Rainbow
    "A lovely route, smiles all the way up" 19/Mar

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