Fat Man's Area

Trad
Early morning sun
6 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

Obviously named in a time when political correctness didn't exist - a deep green rift with several routes in and around it plus a short slab with harder offerings just to the right. Lean Man's Climb is the only route here that sees much action. The area can be very green.
Approach (see map on page 520) - From the West Face walk left for 90m.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Superstitious Start
From inside the grungy gully, start up the crack of Lean Man's Superdirect to a runner. Cross the left wall above the bulges to...
 
1 Stars
HVS
2
Lean Man's Superdirect
1) 5a, 10m. Excellent. Climb the steep, green and awkward groove in the left wall of Fat Man's Chimney to a good stance.2)...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
VS
3
Fat Man's Chimney
The squeezy green rift has a traditional grade and is fun for the fuller of figure - just grunt and go.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Graunchy
Diff
4
Branch Chimney
The easier rift branching right from the base of Fat Man's also makes a useful way down.
 M
5
Cider Frenzy
The hanging arete is a less attractive proposition than it looks from below being both bold and bald.
 E3
6
Lean Man's Eliminate
This is the well-positioned crack high on the side-wall, starting via the upper section of Fat Man's Chimney, or the tricky...
 
1 Stars
VS
7
Gomorrah
Tenuous but well-protected climbing, up the slim groove right of the arete which gives a short-lived tussle.
 
Technical
E1
8
The Sprain
Access the hanging ramp from the block and climb the pocketed wall above. Small cam protection in the thin crack.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
E2
9
Liquid Abs
Gain the good pocket then move left and climb the wall on a poor set of holds and with little for your feet.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5
10
Badmotorfinger
Make a desperate dyno to the mono in the wall, then step slightly left and finish, still with considerable difficulty.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Dyno
E5
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACK ROCKS

    Queen's Parlour Gully
    "Great climb, I needed to get my confidence back on grit and this was just right ..." 06/May

    Lone Tree Groove
    "Getting a bit polished now...but good fun all the same. Bit of a grunt onto the ..." 29/Jan

    Lone Tree Gully
    "nice route, plenty of bridging if you want it. I think S4a is about right, altho..." 16/Oct

    Queen's Parlour Slab
    "You are joking right? The traverse has bomber big cams and is 4b, the slab above..." 18/Apr

    Lean Man's Climb
    "In 1960, I was intrigued by the characteristic elephant's ear. I sorted that aft..." 26/Dec

    Gaia
    "yeah the fall at the start of hard grit stopped me even considering doing it, ev..." 25/Aug

    Stonnis Crack
    "Not as hard as it felt at the time :-) A good finish is to go up the arete on t..." 24/Aug

    Blind Man's Crack
    "I'll be honest- I enjoyed this route. Earns it's star, imho." 23/Aug

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