Dungy Head Beach

Adjacent Areas
< Church Rock Area  |  None >

Bouldering
Sun to mid-afternoon
5 mins
Up and Down
Restricted Access

A good collection of boulders under the towering cliffs of Dungy Head. The beach has dropped in recent years and the problems are longer and much better for it.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Dungy Wall
The pleasant left side of the wall.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
Banned
f4
2
Dungy Arete
The left side of the arete.
 
1 Stars
Banned
f4+
3
Dungy Arete, Sit-start
The sit-start is surprisingly tricky.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
Banned
f6A
4
Awesome Arete
The right side of the arete is as good as the name suggests.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Banned
f6B+
5
Awesome Arete, Sit-start
The sit-start is even better than the stand-start.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Banned
f6C+
6
Jade River
The blank wall right of Awesome Arete. A stand-start using very high poor crimps. The grade may have changed since the beach...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Banned
f7A
7
St Oswald's Wall
The left side of the arete using a high edge to start.
 
1 Stars
Banned
f5+
8
St Oswald's Arete
The powerful arete missing out the wobbly hold.
 
2 Stars
Bumstart
Banned
f6C
9
Spanish Archer
From a large pocket and a low jug climb out the cave.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
Banned
f6B+
10
Snail Slab
The left side of the slab.
 
1 Stars
Banned
f6A
11
Snail Slab, Sit-start
A sit-start from edges.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
Banned
f6A
12
Corsair
Good technical climbing up the centre of the slab.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Banned
f6B
13
Corsair, Sit-start
A worthwhile sit-start from an undercut and edges.
 
2 Stars
Bumstart
Technical
Banned
f6B+
14
Man O' War
The right side of the slab starting from the overlap.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Banned
f6A+
15
Man O' War, Sit-start
A sit-start to the left using the bottom of the overlap. Can be covered in seaweed early in the season.
 
3 Stars
Bumstart
Technical
Banned
f6C
16
Man O' War Arete
Nice balancy climbing up the left side of the arete.
 
1 Stars
Banned
f4+
17
Man O' War Arete, Sit-start
The sit-start adds a surprisingly dynamic first move.
 
2 Stars
Bumstart
Banned
f5+
18
Two Metres Squared
The left arete.
 
Bumstart
Banned
f5
19
Two By Two
Direct from pockets to the lip.
 
Bumstart
Banned
f5+
20
Four Square Metres
From pockets move right to a big hold.
 
Bumstart
Banned
f4
21
Made from Girders
A left-to-right lip traverse.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
Banned
f4+
22
Irn Bru Traverse
A left-to-right traverse along the pocket seam.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
Banned
f6A
23
Frank Sidebottom
Start hanging the lip. Move around the arete and leftward on edges. Turn the far arete.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
Banned
f6A
24
Front Bottom
Turn the lip and mantle to reach a jug.
 
Bumstart
Banned
f6C
25
Back Bottom
The left side of the arete starting with both hands in the low pocket.
 
2 Stars
Bumstart
Banned
f6C
26
Big Bertha
Start from an edge under the roof. Reach the lip then traverse rightward around the arete.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
Banned
f5+
27
Hurricane Bertha
Start in the cave with one hand on the lip and the other in a pocket in the roof. Pull over the roof and up the slab.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
Banned
f6B+
28
Junk in My Trunk
Juggy blobs.
 
Bumstart
Banned
f3
29
Junk Face
A long reach from the start of Junk in My Trunk to more blobs.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
Reachy
Banned
f5+
30
Junk Arete
The left side of the arete on blobs.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
Banned
f4+
31
Cat Power
A mid-height left-to-right traverse.
 
2 Stars
Bumstart
Banned
f7A
32
Jurassica
The yellow face right of the arete. Sit-start on the block.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
Banned
f6A
33
Static Crack
The crack-line after a steep start. A long reach to the first holds.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Banned
f6A
34
Peter Crouch
Start up the supporting boulders and take a slightly leftward line.
 
2 Stars
Banned
f6B
35
Stick Stealer
Start as for Peter Crouch. Climb into the finish of Cheese Arete.
 
2 Stars
Banned
f6B
36
No Arete
An alternative start to Cheese Arete eliminating the arete! Start using the supporting boulder.
 
2 Stars
Bumstart
Banned
f6C
37
Cheese Arete
A fine line starting up the right arete and finishing leftward on pockets. Start using the supporting boulder.
 
3 Stars
Bumstart
Banned
f6B
38
Doing Time
A link-up of Cheese Arete, Cat Power and the finish of Jurassica.
 
1 Stars
Banned
f7A
39
Exfoliator
 
Banned
Loose
f4+